SOLD: 15thC velvet, silk damask and embrodered man's outer garment

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rupertpearson
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SOLD: 15thC velvet, silk damask and embrodered man's outer garment

Postby rupertpearson » Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:23 pm

15thC Burgundian.west european outer garment/robe: velvet, fur, silk damask and embroidered and silk shirt/tunic

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Ultra clean - worn once, indoors at dinner!

I found this 15th C burgundian/northwest european style of outer garment in flemish paintings of burgundian noblemen, for example in hunting scenes. The idea seems to have been a sort of a fusion of an italian gionea (the pleated front, over which one could wear a belt with dagger, despite that belt clearly remaining under the shoulder-and-back cloak part of the garment), with a north european style large outer cloak, with large padded shoulders, billowing sleeve-like panels hanging therefrom, and a long and pleated cape down the back.

The large number of heraldic badge were custom made for me my Hand and Lock, military and court embroiderers, in silver coiled thread. Gorgeous!

The dummy used has a 40" chest. The garment was made for a 42" inch chest. BUT the garment design is very clever in that it can very easily be tweaked to suit larger and narrower chests! See below.

The shoulders and chest and sleeves of the UNDER-garment are cream ribbed SILK. The garment is layered in those place to give it nice structure. The lower parts of the under-garment are linen., The brilliance to this design is that, as the front and back are only loosely laced together, and as the sleeves are laced to the yolk, this garment can fit much large sizes too (although arms of under garment would not fit someone with more than average arm circumference). Assuming you want the undergarment's collar closed, it currently accommodates a 15.5 inch neck.

Currently those billowing, concave shoulder panels are fixed to the front chest panel in not quite the originally the intended place (so that, having been made for me, it would instead fit a friend who has a much smaller chest) however they are thus fixed with no more than a great big stitch easily removed in a flash, although depending on the shape of the buyer you may want to replace those stitches with similar ones in a different location--you might be able to guess at what I mean from the detail in one one of the photos. In fact, if the pleats along the upper part of the front piece were loosened (can be done in seconds without a tailor--easy to see how with it in front of you, looking at the lining) that would allow for a larger chest still. If you wanted to use the garment for slightly later ear reenactment, it would even be possible to open the front right up down the middle which would be more close of 15th C

The velvet is very soft and heavy in a tasteful yet splendid aubergine. The whole cloak's lining--a massive expanse--is a silk and silver renaissance style brocade arabesque in a dusky violet/pink. The lining of the front panel is just linen. The ermine is of course all rabbit fur. With a little unicorn thrown in--but don't tell anyone. The whole garment is heavy.

This garment was extremely expensive to make. The silver embroidered heraldic badges cost at least as much as all the rest the rest of the cloak cost together. The fabric and fur was of course also very expensive.

Therefore I am asking £400. I will pay £20 toward your cost of delivery or I might deliver it free if you are in west london or fairly neatly on the way between that place church stretton.

If you take other items that I am currently selling (a velvet and silvered tod's stuff dagger, with sheath and belt and also some HEMA stuff including a pair of regenyei feders and a brilliantly hacked SPES AP jacket, size 40/42-ish) it will make me the more amenable to a DEAL!



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