pre-washing

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Biro
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pre-washing

Postby Biro » Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:50 pm

After a trip to TORM, I now have some nice woolen fabric that I'm going to make into something similar to the Skjoldehamn kyrtle (fingers crossed). Gonna have ago at hand-sewing because I don't know how to use a sewing machine :oops:

Anyway, probably seems like a stupid question to those who've been making clothing for any period of time, but here goes..

I've read here that I should wash it before cutting to pre-shrink the cloth on a 30 degrees wool wash. Any advice on drying a few metres of the stuff? I take it I can't just bang it in the tumble-dryer... Will it deform if I hang it on the line? (will have to stop snowing first!!) will it matter since nothing is cut out yet?


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Brian



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Postby Simon_Diment » Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:18 pm

Wash it on the highest temperature it will take then dry it on the line. generally that's all I do apart from ironing the fabric before marking and cutting out. Only time you'll catch me using an iron mind you! :lol:


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Postby sally » Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:27 pm

I'm a great believer in washing as hot as it can take (test wash a snippet first to be sure) then getting a helper to assist you to pull it taut, stretching and snapping the fabric to get it all nice and wrinkle free, then I drape it over the bannisters to dry. I iron linen but not wool after doing this



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Postby MedicKitten » Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:46 pm

I just put it out on the line... added extra tension though, as 5 metres of the stuff is pretty heavy.


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Postby seamsmistress » Tue Mar 20, 2007 7:05 pm

Wool can expand as well as shrink :o In the past, I have suffered from the ever growing sleeves and body on jumpers :wink:

As said by others, washing at the highest temperature is the best thing as that will shrink the raw cloth. When made up, wash it on wool wash as this will save you the bother of passing a shrunken garment onto a smaller friend in the future. But also, if washing in the machine, put it on the fastest spin cycle. This will remove as much water as possible, which is what causes jumpers to grow :)

Hope this helps.



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Postby Tuppence » Wed Mar 21, 2007 2:00 am

do remember though that some wools (usually heavily felted ones) should never ever ever be washed, as they are produced using heat and steam, so washing with heat and moisture will seriously damage them.

also bear in mind that washing wool that's isn't designated as 'washable' can reduce the life of any garments made from it.


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Postby kate/bob » Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:04 am

it depends what you're making with your wool. When I'm making outer garmets that I'm not going to wash (hose, overkirtle, hoods, etc) I don't bother to pre-shrink the fabric. Brushing the dried mud off and airing on the line keeps things clean and sweet-smelling - apart from Moose-Abuse's fighting hose, but then I doubt anything could make them sweet-smelling!!!!!



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Postby MedicKitten » Wed Mar 21, 2007 5:35 pm

I washed the wool for my kirtle, but that was partially because I bought it in a revolting color (it was VERY cheap, and had a LOVELY hand) and dyed it. It came out a really nice watchet blue, very authentie.

If i WERENT dying it, i think i'd still prewash to get rid of any modern sizing used on the bolt for display. It tends to come off if it rains, and make the shapes go funny. better to find out ahead of time, BEFORE all the hand sewing.


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Postby Biro » Wed Mar 21, 2007 10:21 pm

Thanks all for the replies. I guess I'll go with washing just a bit of it and if its ok, then I'll do the lot



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Postby m300572 » Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:19 am

Prewash it at the temperature that you will wash it when in use - if you do a 90 degree wash on wool fabric it will possibly end up the consistency of thin plywood!! And make sure you wash the lining at the same or higher temp than the wool - we have some regimental jackets which don't fit anyone over the age of seven having been hot washed by mistake - but he linings are still nearly full size.


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Biro
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Postby Biro » Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:46 am

m300572 wrote:Prewash it at the temperature that you will wash it when in use.


Makes sense.. I'll stick with a pretty low temp then - just to be safe.

m300572 wrote:if you do a 90 degree wash on wool fabric it will possibly end up the consistency of thin plywood!!


Hehe - well, if it all goes wrong, I could always make a shield out of it :)

m300572 wrote:And make sure you wash the lining at the same or higher temp than the wool - we have some regimental jackets which don't fit anyone over the age of seven having been hot washed by mistake - but he linings are still nearly full size.


Hehe - I'm just trying to picture that.. I'm not planning on doing a lining on this one. The mac bible tends to show the poorer people having the same colour on the inside of these garments as the outside - which makes me think that lined stuff wasn't universal and was probably only used if you could afford it. And more importantly, I don't think I can sew well enough to include a lining :) If it goes well, maybe I'll try to do another one with a lining...



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Postby m300572 » Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:58 am

I don't think I can sew well enough to include a lining


Depends on how the garment is made up - if the individual bits are made as panels then butt stitched together then its fairly easy to fit a lining in each panel - Tuppence can probably advise if this is correct construction for the garment you are planning.


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Postby Tuppence » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:18 pm

bear in mind that even if both prewashed, linings and outers may still shrink a bit when made up, and then at different rates.

hence the reason I rarely wash wool, and mark woollen items as dry clean only (plus the fact that most wools these days are designed not to be washed)


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Postby Biro » Thu Mar 22, 2007 1:56 pm

Nooo! so many different answers...

Any idea how much it generally shrinks?... I'm suddenly a little worried that I may not have enough to make it if it's substantial...

hmmm.. I guess I'll make a start at doing a pattern tonight to get a better idea of how much spare fabric I'll have before deciding whether to pre-shrink it or not.

I think that if I do pre-shrink then I'll still always be worried that it would shrink when I wash it again, so will probably end up never washing it...

What causes the shrinkage? is it just the water or the combination of heat/water? I guess what I'm getting at is will it shrink in a thunderstorm?



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Postby m300572 » Thu Mar 22, 2007 2:00 pm

I think the shrinkage is mainly heat related - but its submerging the garment in hot water that shrinks it, dry heat doesn't seem to have the same effect (otherwise the campfires would be surrounded by people in misshapen kit where the bit closest to the fire had shrunk more than the rest).

Wash it on a wool wash or delicates cycle and always do it at the same and it should be OK - or get a washtub on site and do it the traditional way as part of LH.


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