Lining

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sara1459
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Lining

Postby sara1459 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:56 pm

I have at last decided to do some simple sewing rather than something too elaborate that only ends in the bin or Craig's new braies. Does a 14th Century cote needs lining and if so how do you actually line something ?. Does it need cutting to the same shape as the pattern or smaller ?. Where do you sew it ?

If a re-enactor could do a book like an idiots guide to the sewing they would be very rich.



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craig1459
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Postby craig1459 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 3:40 pm

*we've got the MTA :wink:


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Karen Larsdatter
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Re: Lining

Postby Karen Larsdatter » Mon Dec 18, 2006 3:49 pm

Whether a lining would help depends somewhat on the style of cote (the pendant-sleeved style in the mid-14th century, seen in the Luttrell Psalter and elsewhere, should have a white fur lining in the sleeves, for example) -- and somewhat on the weight of the fabric (if it's a coat-weight wool, then it won't need lining throughout the whole garment as badly as, say, a silk taffeta or something on that order).

Much agreed on the MTA -- the how-to information is great, I just wish it had more information/citations about where the various illustrations came from :)



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Sophia
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Postby Sophia » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:12 pm

I generally line everything.

For a simple wool cote you can either choose a lighter version of the colour or a contrasting light colour.

If your cote is in wool and you are not portraying nobility then I suggest linen. Buy at least 1/2 metre more than you need and boil wash it before you cut. (I would also suggest washing any wool before you cut, generally do it on a 30 wool wash - this means garment is washable if necessary).

Looking at paintings, I am pretty certain that most things were lined.

Linings are cut from exactly the same pattern as the main garment (they don't put any ease in unlike with modern dressmaking). Best way to approach it is to make up the cote and the lining separately, then press in the raw edges on both. You can then neatly sew the lining into the garment with slip stitch (as per illustration in MTA). Whether or not you slip stitch the hems together is a matter of taste, though I believe this is definitely more authentic. I am an experienced machinist and still find this is the best way to set in a period lining (easier to control once you have a bulky assembled garment.

Quick note on fabrics:

1) if using a wool then line throughout - generally in linen. If you want a decorative/posh lining for sleeves/skirt, then piece in that fabric to replace the linen where necessary.

2) if using a silk taffetta you may want to consider interlining the body of the garment to just below the hips. This will help it maintain its shape and reduce strain on your expensive fabric.

3) if you are using a brocade or damask for your cote then the lining fabric can be a darker colour if you want (you have the money for double dip dying) or be a finer fabric. You will need to decide on interlining based on fabric weight (the finer it is the more likely interlining is a good idea).

I hope this all makes sense.

Have fun.

Sophia :D



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sara1459
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Postby sara1459 » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:14 pm

It is wool therefore it is quite thick. It is from the MTA and is the finer cote. The MTA is brilliant. I get very carried away when I see the gorgeous pictures and buy too much fabric one day I will use.



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Postby Sophia » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:28 pm

You should probably line it then with a lighter coloured but contrasting linen. A lining prolongs the life of the garment and helps it to keep its shape among other things. If you are worried about being to warm in the summer ensure that your underlayers are all linen - I use all linen kirtles or linen and very lightweight wool kirtles under my gowns in the summer.

Don't worry about the fabric - you are joining a very select club. That of all the reenactors who make their own clothes and as a result have developed a serious fabric habit. :wink:

Sophia :D



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Postby guthrie » Mon Dec 18, 2006 6:57 pm

Fabric habit? I havnt got one honest.
by 14th century cote, you mean later 14th century, or what? I have a supertunic suitable for early 14th century, but wont line it.



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Postby Tuppence » Tue Dec 19, 2006 12:36 am

pm'd you


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Postby lidimy » Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:22 am

does anyone object najorly if i steal this thread? only i am having a problem with lining and could do with some help :oops:

lidi :)


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Postby Tuppence » Tue Dec 19, 2006 12:55 pm

lidi - what help do you need - pm me or e-mail me


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sara1459
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Postby sara1459 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:43 pm

Cheers - nice to to know I am not the only fabric freak. I will attempt the lining this week and let you know. Cannot wait till the next reenactors market !! :lol: Lots of wool - lovelly wool



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craig1459
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Postby craig1459 » Tue Dec 19, 2006 2:48 pm

sara1459 wrote:Cheers - nice to to know I am not the only fabric freak. I will attempt the lining this week and let you know. Cannot wait till the next reenactors market !! :lol: Lots of wool - lovelly wool

Wool? Pah! Steel! :wink:


die Behmen hinder iren bafosen ... stunden vest wie die mauren

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Postby guthrie » Tue Dec 19, 2006 7:42 pm

No!
Both!
How can you look good with your steel, without having good wool? You cant spend all day in your armour.



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Postby Alice the Huswyf » Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:28 am

I am going for the controversial here - after X years I am intending to turn my stockpiles of cloth into garments and actually use them.

This, by the way, includes the curtain fabric being made up into curtains, and the other fabrics being made up into the clothes I bought the pattterns to make 'em in. I may even embroider and embellish them using the box and drawerfuls of nice stuff rotting away alone in the in the unloved dark.

My life may be empty by the end of the excercise, but so should the cupboards, boxes and the floorspace.......



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Postby Drachelis » Wed Dec 20, 2006 11:41 am

I am going for the controversial here - after X years I am intending to turn my stockpiles of cloth into garments and actually use them.


oooh! now that is really radical - I have boxes of non authentic fabric in a barn - I have a whole room of bolts of fabric and shelves full of fabric - not to mention the tower of boxes containing the fabric purchased for orders ( one box oer client)

The plus side of this, Alice, is that once you have made it all up you hae no excuse not to buy more :D

Cheryl
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Alice the Huswyf
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Postby Alice the Huswyf » Wed Dec 20, 2006 2:22 pm

:mrgreen:



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craig1459
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Postby craig1459 » Thu Dec 21, 2006 7:20 am

guthrie wrote:No!
Both!
How can you look good with your steel, without having good wool? You cant spend all day in your armour.

er joke - I'm more of a cloth fiend than Sara is :lol:


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Postby Tuppence » Thu Dec 21, 2006 1:36 pm

I am going for the controversial here - after X years I am intending to turn my stockpiles of cloth into garments and actually use them.

This, by the way, includes the curtain fabric being made up into curtains, and the other fabrics being made up into the clothes I bought the pattterns to make 'em in. I may even embroider and embellish them using the box and drawerfuls of nice stuff rotting away alone in the in the unloved dark.

My life may be empty by the end of the excercise, but so should the cupboards, boxes and the floorspace.......



:shock:

but everybody knows you're just meant to keep it all, and get it out an stroke it lovingly from time to time....

I hate it when I get to the end of a bolt of cloth that I really like (ususally ones from Hainsworth's, surprisingly :wink: ). Feels like a friend going away.

And now Nigel is insisting that I go through my scraps boxes and bags and bins. :cry: I mean, how horrid is that?????!!!!!


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gregory23b
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Postby gregory23b » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:19 pm

I seem to have accumulated some nice antique flax and hemp linens, aw... can I join please?


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Sophia
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Postby Sophia » Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:29 pm

Of course you can join Jorge :D

Love to know where you got the old linen though.

Sophia :D :twisted:




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