Fabric query

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Sophia
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Fabric query

Post by Sophia »

I know this is a furnishing fabric and it is chenille, but would it do with the predominantly dark blue side as a substitute for cut velvet?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1

If not can anyone suggest what I might use - wanted to trim a plain wool gown with a deep border and cuffs in something other than ordinary velvet, so would only be looking for a couple of metres.

Sophia :D

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Dave B
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Post by Dave B »

When you consider how velvet was made, I find it hard to believe that it would be as fine as what we think of as velvet - I think that the upper and lower weaves were cut apart by hand.

Also I believe that velvets were made of a variety of types of thread.

I read that velvet only started being available in europe in any quantity at all in the 1420's and wasn't seen much in england till around richie 3, but I'm not sure if that is still current historical belief?
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Sophia
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Post by Sophia »

Dave,

Going to have to disabuse you on that one. Would refer you to the section on Half-silk Velvets, p. 127ff in Textiles and Clothing c.1150-c.1450, Medieval finds from excavations in London. Reference is made to substantial market in velvets as early as the late C14th, that's the late 1300's.

I am concentrating on post 1450, generally well to-do obviously for this type of gown. Not exactly what you would pick to clean the house or tend the fire in after all.

Sophia :D

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calicocloth
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Post by calicocloth »

Sophia, I think the biggest problem will be the weight - it is described as very heavy and will be unwieldy as cuff or border.
Last edited by calicocloth on Mon Oct 09, 2006 11:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by m300572 »

When you consider how velvet was made, I find it hard to believe that it would be as fine as what we think of as velvet - I think that the upper and lower weaves were cut apart by hand.
From memory, the pile was woven as loops which were then cut by hand (sharp knife with a very narrow blade and a steady hand needed), the nap raised and then shorn with large shears to give the smooth finish.

( To digress, the rotary lawnmower was actually first developed as a machine for shearing the nap on cloth)

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Post by Tuppence »

Some of the medieval velvet fragments at the v&a are incredibly fine - easily as fine as we can do today.

in fact some would argue that hand cut velvets are finer, because you can be more precise by hand than by machine.
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Sophia
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Post by Sophia »

Thanks for that folks - will probably buy a couple of metres. If feels to heavy for dressmaking then it is likely to end up as part of the padded coverlet I am considering for our bed.

There is after all mention of heavier velvets appearing even earlier for use in furnishings and beddings.

Sophia :D

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calicocloth
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Post by calicocloth »

Sophia, have you considered Devore velvet? I have never actually tried it, but often wondered if a devore silk velvet backed with a silk satin would look sufficiently like a cut velvet.

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Post by Mary Craig »

If you can find your local Sari shops they will stock silk velvet. It is usually sold as part of a ladies costume set of two or three matching pieces of fabric, and they may insist that you buy all of the set simply because a left over remant doesn't sell easily in a culture that wears co-ordinating outfits.
There's an area in Glasgow where I can pick and choose from nearly a dozen sari shops, I'm sure most major cities are the same, and silk velvet usually comes 45" wide and costs from £8.99 a metre. Utterly correct though, beautiful to work with and available in about 50 different colours.............I feel a shopping trip coming on :oops:


Cheers,
Mary

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Post by Tuppence »

ah - but the purest in me has to point out that modern silk velvet (although gorgeous, and the best we can get these days unless v lucky) is most likely to be the 82/18 rayon and silk mix.

*sigh*

cursed victorians for inventing rayon...
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Post by Sophia »

Unless of course you can afford those specialist in Italy and France at hundreds of pounds a metre. It makes my trip to Henri Bertrand for silk brocatelle look cheap.

Sophia :(

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Post by Gwen »

I have little issue with the chenilles if you're going for a period look but not counting stitches, but the pattern on the ebay piece is very modern.

Gwen

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Post by Tuppence »

Unless of course you can afford those specialist in Italy and France at hundreds of pounds a metre. It makes my trip to Henri Bertrand for silk brocatelle look cheap.
Too true!!

http://www.luigi-bevilacqua.com/


*drool*

*sigh*
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Post by Mary Craig »

Tuppence wrote:ah - but the purest in me has to point out that modern silk velvet (although gorgeous, and the best we can get these days unless v lucky) is most likely to be the 82/18 rayon and silk mix.

*sigh*

cursed victorians for inventing rayon...
Caveat emptor. :roll:
Depends on how fussy your supplier is I suppose, the last lot I got came from Kashmir and it's silk. It cost me £13.99 a metre and I had to buy the trousers and scarf pieces too, they were £7.99 a metre but they were pure silk too. All in all a good haul :D

Some of the Chinese stuff coming in as scarves and pashminas is surpisingly good too.

Cheers,
Mary

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Post by JC Milwr »

The viscose silk feels like the real thing though (oir what I assume the real thing feels like, never actually seen any), so unless you do a silk test you won't know. Having said that, if it feels like silk, does it matter?

Silk test: put a swatch in neat bleach, leave an hour or so, stirring occasionally. Silk dissolves, other materials don't :)
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