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Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:55 pm
by Sophia
Lidi,

One way of dealing with the seam allowance is to set the eyelets just in from where you can feel the edge of the turned in allowances. This means you are forcing your awl through less fabric which should make things easier. The seam allowance also helps keep the edge stiff.

A quick check on my kirtles has just shown that the centre of the eyelets is an average of about 3/4" from the edge of the garment. This also has the advantage that if the garment stretches a little with wear and you have used spiral lacing you can overlap the edges a little.

Sophia :D

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:08 pm
by myladyswardrobe
Medickitten said:
On the other hand...I also had the interlining WAY too close to the edge, so the dratted things just kept closing on me! This year's will be MUCH better. I promise. AND they'll be done when I get there. Really! I wont be stitching in the airport this time!
M'dear - my pink kirtle doesn't have all its eyelets done either!!! In fact, I don't think ANY of my personal costumes have EVER had all the hand done eyelets completed!

So, you are in good company!

And, its tradition to be sewing at the last possible moment. My wedding gown had its last stitch put in at 2pm on my wedding day. The wedding was at 2.30pm!

Hugs

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:53 pm
by lidimy
On the other hand...I also had the interlining WAY too close to the edge, so the dratted things just kept closing on me! This year's will be MUCH better. I promise. AND they'll be done when I get there. Really! I wont be stitching in the airport this time! Twisted Evil
Ok, now I'm SERIOUSLY worried, and I blame Annis -! :D

I thought that the procedure was to cut the interlining without seam allowance, then when you hem the front opening of the bodice, you fold the cover material over the interlining and lining....
then poke the holes through that...

'cept I realised at the last possible moment (as ever) that it would be too big, even when laced up completely closed and a little overlapping as Sophia said. So, I folded it over again so it really is quite a thick wad that I had to poke the knitting needles through.

I've done it wrong haven't I :(

And I'm back to school tomorrow and I really should be worrying more about that than the fact that my eyelets might be wrong.

Meh.

Lidi :|

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:15 pm
by Sophia
Lidi,

I know this sounds daft, but don't panic. I have not yet produced the perfect kirtle - I just make a note of errors/fitting alterations needed and incorporate them into the next model.

This could be considered as lazy, but I need to have the garments to wear for events and there is a always a point at which I just get on and finish them.

On the fitting front - you really do need to make the bodice of the kirtle about 5 cm smaller all around than you think you need it. This is why they are so difficult to fit on yourself - even I can't manage that. What some people do is prepare a lacing strip which they machine/hand baste onto the toile (calico trial run which is used to adjust the fit) so that it sits where the lacing would go on the finished garment and check things this way. You can also do this with a partially finished bodice so as to check things are still right.

On the interlining front - I normally cut this without seam allowances on the edges of the garment, but not on the seams and then grade the seams when I press them. If I were have to fold in the edges further I would trim back the interlining. It must be said that I use woven interlining and tack it down (mainly heavy linen). Will probably not include my interlinings for later periods in the seams though as for these stiffer garments I will be using linen canvas and heavy buckram which is much stiffer and thicker.

Hope this all makes sense.

Sophia :D

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:21 pm
by MedicKitten
Sophia, where do you get your buckram? I'm having a devil of a time, but i'd really like to have some so that I can minimize boning needs...though a few nice cable-ties really do work wonders. :twisted:

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:56 pm
by Sophia
Buckram and linen canvas can be purchased mail order from Whaleys in Bradford. It is not cheap, plus you will have to pay the postage and any duty to get it too the USA.

You could try somewhere that specialises in curtain fabrics as it is used for stiffening pelmets. I believe it is also used in patchwork.

I am not sure where you are based but what you really need is a place that supplies professional tailors as it is still used to created the interling and shoulder pads on good suits.

Sophia :D

Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:44 pm
by MedicKitten
I'm up in the wilds of New Hampshire when i'm at home, but in Connecticut when at Uni....I suppose I could always trek into Boston or New York City...but i'll try online one more time.

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:20 am
by Sophia
Look around in the town where your college is based and see if there is a tailor who does bespoke suits - they might be able to direct you to a supplier. Also try looking in areas with a high immigrant population, in my experience they often still make their own clothes more than people think. My nearest fabric shop is no use for re-enactment but great if you want fabric or patterns for African outfits and we have a couple of local tailors who serve the Afro-Carribean community which is very strong round here. They are seriously dressy when it comes to Church and festivities.

Also had a bit of a web surf and came up with the following on your side of the pond:

http://store.atlantathread.com/belica.html - tailor's linen

http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount- ... supplies/4 - as buckram is essentially a very heavy canvas so perhaps one of these would do.

All the best,

Sophia :D

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:34 am
by MedicKitten
Thanks, Sophia, I'll give it a try

Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:25 pm
by lidimy
FINISHED THE EYELETS!!!!

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:09 am
by lidimy
Woo hoo I'm so happy! I just tried it on for the first time (properly) and it FITs and, after a brief panic where I spiral laced it wrongly, I re-laced it correctly and it's so yummy and prettiful and I don't want to take it off! See what you think :D:D:D:D:D:D

Lidi :D

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:57 am
by myladyswardrobe
Hey!!! Thats such a gorgeous fit!! You are doing well m'dear!!

And congrats on getting the eyelets done. They can be rather annoying! :wink:

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:23 am
by Annis
oooh, I love it! can you make me one now?

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:26 pm
by lidimy
Lol yes I can, but it'll cost you.... :P

Thanks for the compliments, I'm so happy with it! Oddly enough, the fact that one side is longer than the other doesn't show up as much as I though it would, which was my main worry with it!

Anyway, now for the sleeves..... should be interesting as the only sleeves I have ever made were for my smock and it didn't matter so much if they went wrong :lol:

Lidi :D

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:59 pm
by lidimy
Er, yes, sleeves.... just read through the section on constructing the sleeves (pg 111) and I quite literally do not know what it means at all, it's like reading a foreign language and there are no diagrams. I am completely and utterly lost, I do not know how to proceed at all!

Please help!

The sleeve side of the shoulder straps are unfinished but at the minute are pinned back to the level they would be with sleeves on, if that makes sense. The way I made my shift sleeves was basically just sewing them on, but I don't know if that's what the TT is trying to tell me! I -think- that Point 3 of the method is what I did before, but I don't understand then where the lining comes into it all! I'm so stuck!

Lidi :(

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:30 pm
by Annis
I would help you, but I've just lent the TT to a friend.

Are these permanent sleeves?

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:31 pm
by lidimy
Yes. :) Unless anyone knows otherwise :P

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:35 pm
by Annis
well, they could be detachable, in which case I could help.

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:36 pm
by lidimy
Hmm, not sure that a posh satin gown would be suitable for detachable sleeves, esp if they're 1530s sleeves with turnbacks!

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:18 pm
by myladyswardrobe
Lidi,

I'll email you a set of notes/instructions I created on making the 1520-1550s gown sleeves.

Can you email me your email address again? And can your email received word document attachments?

Bess.

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:47 pm
by lidimy
Email received, thank you ever so much! I'm still a little unsure about how to join the finished sleeve to the bodice though :)

Lidi :D

Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:16 pm
by myladyswardrobe
Tack the lining to the top fabric of the sleeve head together and snip round the curve. Slip the snipped bits into the bodice strap between the top/interlining layers and the lining. Slip it in up to the tacking stitches on the sleeve head.

Slip stitch in place.

Does that make sense?

Bess.

Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:35 am
by lidimy
Bess you are simply the most fabulous person EVER. That's such a brilliant idea!! How could I have been so dumb?!

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!


Lidi :D:D:D

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 3:58 pm
by lidimy
Foresleeves almost completed! I have posted a piccy, once they are finished they wont look very different to what they do here so yeh :D All I need to do is hem the elbow line bit. (sorry for the angle, my web cam wasn't behaving. And Yes Annis, that is the msn conversation I wss having with you at the time in the corner...)

Lidi :)

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:09 pm
by Annis
hee hee.

very nice m'dear.

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:09 pm
by lidimy
You've already seen them :P

But thanks for the comment anyway :D

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:58 pm
by myladyswardrobe
Where are the piccies???? I couldn't see the link.

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:40 pm
by lidimy
There isn't a link, I posted them as an attachment. If you can't see them I can email you them if you want, not that they are very exciting but I am quite pleased :P

Lidi :)

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:44 pm
by myladyswardrobe
Ooh - I can see them now!!

Probably my laptop being wierd. Its been playing up again this pm.

Looks good though. Nice damask.

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:48 pm
by lidimy
Thanks :D I'm rather fortunate to have the material seeing as there was loads of it and it was free! It is coming in very useful indeed :P

I have decided not to do the sleeves next by the way, I will do the skirt, because I am rather worried about fabric shortages which I would rather divert to the sleeves, which will be easier to scrimp on than the skirt.

Lidi :D