Tudor gown lacing?

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Sophia
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Postby Sophia » Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:55 pm

Lidi,

One way of dealing with the seam allowance is to set the eyelets just in from where you can feel the edge of the turned in allowances. This means you are forcing your awl through less fabric which should make things easier. The seam allowance also helps keep the edge stiff.

A quick check on my kirtles has just shown that the centre of the eyelets is an average of about 3/4" from the edge of the garment. This also has the advantage that if the garment stretches a little with wear and you have used spiral lacing you can overlap the edges a little.

Sophia :D



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Postby myladyswardrobe » Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:08 pm

Medickitten said:
On the other hand...I also had the interlining WAY too close to the edge, so the dratted things just kept closing on me! This year's will be MUCH better. I promise. AND they'll be done when I get there. Really! I wont be stitching in the airport this time!


M'dear - my pink kirtle doesn't have all its eyelets done either!!! In fact, I don't think ANY of my personal costumes have EVER had all the hand done eyelets completed!

So, you are in good company!

And, its tradition to be sewing at the last possible moment. My wedding gown had its last stitch put in at 2pm on my wedding day. The wedding was at 2.30pm!

Hugs


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Postby lidimy » Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:53 pm

On the other hand...I also had the interlining WAY too close to the edge, so the dratted things just kept closing on me! This year's will be MUCH better. I promise. AND they'll be done when I get there. Really! I wont be stitching in the airport this time! Twisted Evil


Ok, now I'm SERIOUSLY worried, and I blame Annis -! :D

I thought that the procedure was to cut the interlining without seam allowance, then when you hem the front opening of the bodice, you fold the cover material over the interlining and lining....
then poke the holes through that...

'cept I realised at the last possible moment (as ever) that it would be too big, even when laced up completely closed and a little overlapping as Sophia said. So, I folded it over again so it really is quite a thick wad that I had to poke the knitting needles through.

I've done it wrong haven't I :(

And I'm back to school tomorrow and I really should be worrying more about that than the fact that my eyelets might be wrong.

Meh.

Lidi :|


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Postby Sophia » Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:15 pm

Lidi,

I know this sounds daft, but don't panic. I have not yet produced the perfect kirtle - I just make a note of errors/fitting alterations needed and incorporate them into the next model.

This could be considered as lazy, but I need to have the garments to wear for events and there is a always a point at which I just get on and finish them.

On the fitting front - you really do need to make the bodice of the kirtle about 5 cm smaller all around than you think you need it. This is why they are so difficult to fit on yourself - even I can't manage that. What some people do is prepare a lacing strip which they machine/hand baste onto the toile (calico trial run which is used to adjust the fit) so that it sits where the lacing would go on the finished garment and check things this way. You can also do this with a partially finished bodice so as to check things are still right.

On the interlining front - I normally cut this without seam allowances on the edges of the garment, but not on the seams and then grade the seams when I press them. If I were have to fold in the edges further I would trim back the interlining. It must be said that I use woven interlining and tack it down (mainly heavy linen). Will probably not include my interlinings for later periods in the seams though as for these stiffer garments I will be using linen canvas and heavy buckram which is much stiffer and thicker.

Hope this all makes sense.

Sophia :D



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Postby MedicKitten » Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:21 pm

Sophia, where do you get your buckram? I'm having a devil of a time, but i'd really like to have some so that I can minimize boning needs...though a few nice cable-ties really do work wonders. :twisted:


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Postby Sophia » Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:56 pm

Buckram and linen canvas can be purchased mail order from Whaleys in Bradford. It is not cheap, plus you will have to pay the postage and any duty to get it too the USA.

You could try somewhere that specialises in curtain fabrics as it is used for stiffening pelmets. I believe it is also used in patchwork.

I am not sure where you are based but what you really need is a place that supplies professional tailors as it is still used to created the interling and shoulder pads on good suits.

Sophia :D



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Postby MedicKitten » Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:44 pm

I'm up in the wilds of New Hampshire when i'm at home, but in Connecticut when at Uni....I suppose I could always trek into Boston or New York City...but i'll try online one more time.


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Postby Sophia » Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:20 am

Look around in the town where your college is based and see if there is a tailor who does bespoke suits - they might be able to direct you to a supplier. Also try looking in areas with a high immigrant population, in my experience they often still make their own clothes more than people think. My nearest fabric shop is no use for re-enactment but great if you want fabric or patterns for African outfits and we have a couple of local tailors who serve the Afro-Carribean community which is very strong round here. They are seriously dressy when it comes to Church and festivities.

Also had a bit of a web surf and came up with the following on your side of the pond:

http://store.atlantathread.com/belica.html - tailor's linen

http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/online/3873/art-supplies/4 - as buckram is essentially a very heavy canvas so perhaps one of these would do.

All the best,

Sophia :D



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Postby MedicKitten » Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:34 am

Thanks, Sophia, I'll give it a try


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Postby lidimy » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:25 pm

FINISHED THE EYELETS!!!!


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Postby lidimy » Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:09 am

Woo hoo I'm so happy! I just tried it on for the first time (properly) and it FITs and, after a brief panic where I spiral laced it wrongly, I re-laced it correctly and it's so yummy and prettiful and I don't want to take it off! See what you think :D:D:D:D:D:D

Lidi :D


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Postby myladyswardrobe » Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:57 am

Hey!!! Thats such a gorgeous fit!! You are doing well m'dear!!

And congrats on getting the eyelets done. They can be rather annoying! :wink:


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Postby Annis » Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:23 am

oooh, I love it! can you make me one now?


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Postby lidimy » Sun Mar 18, 2007 12:26 pm

Lol yes I can, but it'll cost you.... :P

Thanks for the compliments, I'm so happy with it! Oddly enough, the fact that one side is longer than the other doesn't show up as much as I though it would, which was my main worry with it!

Anyway, now for the sleeves..... should be interesting as the only sleeves I have ever made were for my smock and it didn't matter so much if they went wrong :lol:

Lidi :D


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Postby lidimy » Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:59 pm

Er, yes, sleeves.... just read through the section on constructing the sleeves (pg 111) and I quite literally do not know what it means at all, it's like reading a foreign language and there are no diagrams. I am completely and utterly lost, I do not know how to proceed at all!

Please help!

The sleeve side of the shoulder straps are unfinished but at the minute are pinned back to the level they would be with sleeves on, if that makes sense. The way I made my shift sleeves was basically just sewing them on, but I don't know if that's what the TT is trying to tell me! I -think- that Point 3 of the method is what I did before, but I don't understand then where the lining comes into it all! I'm so stuck!

Lidi :(


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Postby Annis » Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:30 pm

I would help you, but I've just lent the TT to a friend.

Are these permanent sleeves?


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Postby lidimy » Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:31 pm

Yes. :) Unless anyone knows otherwise :P


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Postby Annis » Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:35 pm

well, they could be detachable, in which case I could help.


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Postby lidimy » Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:36 pm

Hmm, not sure that a posh satin gown would be suitable for detachable sleeves, esp if they're 1530s sleeves with turnbacks!


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Postby myladyswardrobe » Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:18 pm

Lidi,

I'll email you a set of notes/instructions I created on making the 1520-1550s gown sleeves.

Can you email me your email address again? And can your email received word document attachments?

Bess.


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Postby lidimy » Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:47 pm

Email received, thank you ever so much! I'm still a little unsure about how to join the finished sleeve to the bodice though :)

Lidi :D


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Postby myladyswardrobe » Sun Mar 18, 2007 10:16 pm

Tack the lining to the top fabric of the sleeve head together and snip round the curve. Slip the snipped bits into the bodice strap between the top/interlining layers and the lining. Slip it in up to the tacking stitches on the sleeve head.

Slip stitch in place.

Does that make sense?

Bess.


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Postby lidimy » Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:35 am

Bess you are simply the most fabulous person EVER. That's such a brilliant idea!! How could I have been so dumb?!

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!


Lidi :D:D:D


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Postby lidimy » Mon Mar 26, 2007 3:58 pm

Foresleeves almost completed! I have posted a piccy, once they are finished they wont look very different to what they do here so yeh :D All I need to do is hem the elbow line bit. (sorry for the angle, my web cam wasn't behaving. And Yes Annis, that is the msn conversation I wss having with you at the time in the corner...)

Lidi :)


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Postby Annis » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:09 pm

hee hee.

very nice m'dear.


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Postby lidimy » Mon Mar 26, 2007 5:09 pm

You've already seen them :P

But thanks for the comment anyway :D


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Postby myladyswardrobe » Mon Mar 26, 2007 8:58 pm

Where are the piccies???? I couldn't see the link.


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Postby lidimy » Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:40 pm

There isn't a link, I posted them as an attachment. If you can't see them I can email you them if you want, not that they are very exciting but I am quite pleased :P

Lidi :)


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Postby myladyswardrobe » Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:44 pm

Ooh - I can see them now!!

Probably my laptop being wierd. Its been playing up again this pm.

Looks good though. Nice damask.


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Postby lidimy » Mon Mar 26, 2007 9:48 pm

Thanks :D I'm rather fortunate to have the material seeing as there was loads of it and it was free! It is coming in very useful indeed :P

I have decided not to do the sleeves next by the way, I will do the skirt, because I am rather worried about fabric shortages which I would rather divert to the sleeves, which will be easier to scrimp on than the skirt.

Lidi :D


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