WOTR Patterns

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WOTR Patterns

Postby nickthegreek » Fri May 05, 2006 4:20 am

Hi Everyone,
I have been trying to get some Petty Chapman patterns from Caliver Books to no avail.
Could someone please tell me where else i can buy these patterns, or of a alternative company's patterns.
I'm after Hose, doublet(pointing),padded jack, livery coat, and possibly a shirt pattern.

many thanks

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Postby Vicky » Fri May 05, 2006 7:45 am


The webiste isn't very informative, but has contact details.

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Postby nickthegreek » Fri May 05, 2006 11:29 pm

Ta Vicky,
have left emails before with Petty before, and had no replys. After talking with Dave at Caliver's, he won't be stocking these patterns again.
Is this pattern viable for a pointing doublet?




Where else can i get patterns from, for Doublet, Full hose, and Livery Coat?
And can anybody reccommend where to buy a "cheap" padded jack rrom please?

Many thanks,

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Postby corsetangel » Fri May 12, 2006 7:47 am

Hi corset angel here.

Many people have expressed a need for period patterns and I am currently working on my own range if there is something specific you need please feel free to give me a shout and I will do my best to reproduce it for you and in turn add it to my range.

You can contact me via PM, email RMHDesigns22@aol.com or telephone 01584 890707

Hope this helps

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Postby Alice the Huswyf » Fri May 12, 2006 8:40 am

A 'Cheap' jack is not always a good idea - from a safety point of view if not from the look of the thing.

Things to avoid when shopping for an 'economy' jack ;
- square quilting,
huge amounts of very obvious machine stitching,
any kind of rivets,
coloured fabric unless you have a really good provenenace from a primary source.
If you can move with great freedom in it brand new, then it is too thin and will not afford you much protection - remember that in combat, people see padding and assume you have made sure it is thick enough - they do not stop to assess the weight of wadding / number of layers of linen. They do work in and soften with wear.
If you are intending to do combat of any kind spend money on your jack - 'cheap' ones often aren't that 'cheap' and you wouldn't wear a bicycle helmet when riding a motorbike down the M1, would you?

Private message to Tuppence who is a professional costumier and who specialises in padded armour (ie makes jacks regularly) would be a good idea

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Postby Alice the Huswyf » Fri May 12, 2006 8:42 am

Duplicated post

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Postby nutmeg_bec » Sun May 14, 2006 8:50 pm

I'm curious, what's wrong with "square" quilting - surely it's easier to manufacture, even by hand?

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Postby Alice the Huswyf » Sun May 14, 2006 9:58 pm

I am absolutley no expert, but it is not a style I have seen - but then I have not made an exhaustive search as Tuppence will have done. Square quilting looks very bad when done by machine!

Technically, channel quilting is simplest as you are working all in one direction so you do not have shrinkage in both directions and don't have to calculate for it twice in cutting out.

The quickest method is knotting I have been told. The longest method is making a coat of eyes. MMMMMM! Tunisian stitch repeated edge to edge through all the layers all over the garment. Cool to wear but a killer to sew.

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Postby guthrie » Sun May 14, 2006 11:34 pm

"The medieval Tailors assistant", by Sarah Thursfield has bunch of patterns, reasonably easy to follow in my limited experience.

I would suggest phoning Dave Rushworth, rather than e-mailing him- I didnt even know he has a website, and I've been chatting to him at events now for 4 seasons.

A quick quesiton nick- are you a member of a group or something, or have you got to run up some 15th century kit in a real hurry?

Edited to add:
OOps, I forgot you were in New Zealand. In that case forget the question.

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Postby Tuppence » Tue May 16, 2006 12:09 pm

Re. the patterns - I'd say go for the book - infinitely superior to any medieval commercial paterns I've seen, even if the scaling up does take a smidge extra work.

Re. the square quilting - aaarrrggghhh!!!.

There is limited evidence for what looks like square quilting (although much of it is quite early, and it's hard to tell what the artist was trying to achieve, coupled with the fact that some of the work (picture) is quite crude.
In my opinion, what it actually is, is either knotting, as mentioned by Alice (which having done it, is indeed faster, if harder on the hands), or very wide apart straight stitching, or pad stitching.

There is at least one picture which shows what are clearly knots, and several which are ambiguous.

As I said, in my opinion, it's not depicting cross quilting, but one of the above methods - the crossed effect is achieved in the same way that buttoning a sofa-back will give the appearance of crossed lines between the buttons.
The idea is supported by later construction methods - if you look at quilted linings in extant garments of the 16th century, from a distance many look as though they are cross quilted - only on seeing them close up does it become clear that it's actually pad stitching done very tightly over quite thick, soft padding.
As we know that a lot of padding used raw cotton (cotton wool), or wool, as the internal layers, we can assume that it would have been quite squishable until it was quilted between the linen / fustian.

In addition to this, every piece of extant padding that I'm aware of, from the fourteenth through to the sixteenth century uses straight quilting (although not always straight up and down, or parallel - some goes in sharply at the waist, and some goes horizontally, or in circles).

To be honest, cross quilting just doesn't make sense. As Alice says (again), you have to worry about the additional shrinkage, but far more importantly, why are you going to do twice the amount of stitching for the same result???
Just isn't logical.


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