Height/Length of Early 15thC Split Hose

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Will.S
Posts: 46
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:29 pm

Height/Length of Early 15thC Split Hose

Postby Will.S » Tue Dec 31, 2013 5:31 pm

I apologise in advance if this has been asked before - I had a good look through using the search function and found bits and pieces almost answering the question but nothing finite!

I'm about to get started on a 1415 era soft kit, but can't quite get my head around the "grey area" between the tops of the hose (split) and the bottom hem of the doublet. Some info on where they start/end would be excellent!

Some sources say "hose reach to the top of the leg" - is this the top of the leg just under the buttocks, or does it cover the buttocks? In the MTA there's an image of later split hose with a straight cut all the way around (page 106, fig 4C), which suggests it's fitted snugly into the crotch and does whatever it does around the buttocks - I guess it would end up being somewhere halfway up? Other images of artwork and various reenactment suppliers websites show them cut with a curve which fits into the crotch on the inside, but the front, sides and back reach higher up towards the natural waistline. I'm sure these all change depending on the period, but I've no idea which one is suitable for the period I'm interested in!

If the correct hose style for 1415 or early 15thC in general is the straight cut without a curve, the top of the hose can only reach as high as halfway round the buttocks, which means the peplum/skirt of the doublet needs to reach from the natural waist all the way down to this line, which seems far longer than any artwork from the period, but I've also read about "long doublets"...

Is the more common image of the doublet with short peplum reaching to hip-height or above only suitable for joined hose with a higher waistline, or would split hose work with the short doublet as well? In which case the split hose would end up looking exactly like joined hose... without the seam running through the middle, and without a codpiece.

Clearly, I'm befuddled so any guidance would be most welcome!



guthrie
Absolute Wizard
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Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 8:54 pm
Location: Polmont-Edinburgh

Re: Height/Length of Early 15thC Split Hose

Postby guthrie » Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:26 pm

I don't have the time or the spoons to do it myself, but you might like to search some manuscripts in the British library and the Bodleian library, they're online with lots of nice pictures of people in clothing. I'm thinking of making a proper circa 1410-1415 set of clothing myself at some point, and that's where I would start. It really is making things much easier now for finding out clothing stuff.



Will.S
Posts: 46
Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2013 3:29 pm

Re: Height/Length of Early 15thC Split Hose

Postby Will.S » Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:29 am

Thanks Guthrie, I'll have a look! I have access to the Bodleian anyway as I lived in Oxford for many years and both my parents are still lecturers in various universities there. I'll pop in next time I'm there.

I think I've found what I was looking for now, but if anybody has any images of split hose/doublet from that period from the back I'd greatly appreciate a link!




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