Sewing projects

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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:31 am

I want ash pliss - will send you all dims. Probably 4 (yes, I am going to pack spares).


Is it 'coz I is middewl clarse, aih?

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Re: Sewing projects

Postby lucy the tudor » Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:47 pm

Certainly ma'am, you send me the sizes and I'll send you the busks...
Ash is lovely and a bit springy too, compared to other hard woods, so a fine choice. 8-)


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:58 pm

Thanks to alice I've just had some made to measure short stays pointed out to me on ebay. They are within my budget and I think as something that will only get worn once or twice should do the job. So I think I will go for them.
Last edited by ladydetemps on Thu Aug 18, 2011 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:23 am

What is the most simplest pattern I could start with for any era, any item?



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby sally » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:28 am

ladydetemps wrote:What is the most simplest pattern I could start with for any era, any item?

How about a shift/smock? Nice simple shapes, you always need more of them, and if you go a bit wonky anywhere it won't notice as it will be under your outer clothing



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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:52 am

If you wanted to work on a one period suite of clothes as a learning exercise, do C15th ( but if using Sally's pattern, instead of cutting and adding in the skirt gores, cut it out including half of a gore shape on each side of the lower skirt panel. This suite of clothing repeats the same processes so that they become familiar and a complete beginner can produce very good results. I know this from repeated experience

I will send you smock instructions. Start with this, as it is a basic shape for a lot of early medieval clothing and later underlayers.

Then go and look at Sally's website and try her C14th kirtle. http://www.sallypointer.com/simplemedievaldress.htm Nice easy instructions - very similar construction but it will move you on to basic fitting to the figure and eyeletting.

Then using gown pattern (effectively a modified smock pattern - I will send you this set of instructions) you make a burgundian A-line V-neck overgown which makes up like the smock, but with a different neck and fitted sleeves like the kirtle and fitted by belting and tucking when you put it on.


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:58 am

Alice the Huswyf wrote:If you wanted to work on a one period suite of clothes as a learning exercise, do C15th ( but if using Sally's pattern, instead of cutting and adding in the skirt gores, cut it out including half of a gore shape on each side of the lower skirt panel. This suite of clothing repeats the same processes so that they become familiar and a complete beginner can produce very good results. I know this from repeated experience
[snip]
Then using gown pattern (effectively a modified smock pattern - I will send you this set of instructions) you make a burgundian A-line V-neck overgown which makes up like the smock, but with a different neck and fitted sleeves like the kirtle and fitted by belting and tucking when you put it on.

Can I ask a quick question.
What is a 'gore', and what is 'burgundian'?



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby mally ley » Mon Aug 08, 2011 12:42 pm

ladydetemps wrote:Can I ask a quick question. What is a 'gore', and what is 'burgundian'?

A 'gore' is a triangular piece of fabric. If the main body of the kirtle or gown is cut with straight edges you don't have enough width around the hips or around the hem. This might be because you don't have a wide enough piece of fabric (and medieval broadcloth wasn't as wide as modern broadcloth) or it might be a style decision. Soooo, a triangular piece, starting either from underarm or waist (depending on period I think), is slotted in to the seams. It adds fabric at the hips and more at the hem, without adding too much around bust or waist.
I hope this makes sense, but someone else might have a different way of describing it which might make more sense for you!

'Burgundian' is just a style of C15th gown, which is worn over a kirtle (and shift/shirt). It fits at the shoulders and then flares out basically A-line. It has long sleeves, goes on over the head and once on it is belted with a wide belt under the bust.



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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Mon Aug 08, 2011 1:46 pm

AS per the Mallykins. All explained in copious intruction sheets just sent. Would make this outfit - kirtles go under gowns - working class kirtle with sleeves off to work shown, very posh burgundian gown in high status cloth shown.Once you've mastered your regency dress you will have had a run up at modern methods, and this - period methods, you will find that your perceived knowledge gap in between is not as empty as you thought.
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gown.jpg
gown.jpg (3.95 KiB) Viewed 7887 times

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kirtle.jpg
kirtle.jpg (1.74 KiB) Viewed 7887 times


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:00 pm

My bunting sewing isn't too bad. And I can handle patchwork quilts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v28/i ... MG0370.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v28/i ... ilt1_b.jpg
I don't know why clothes scare me so much.

Thanks for sending the patterns I think I will have to try making a 'scaled down' version to try out the different techniques before going 'big'.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:43 pm

Recut your green fabric and try the smock in that. Just join the two front halves to make a flat piece. Smocks are very comfortable to sleep in. All joking aside, if you have a source for decent old wool bankets, they make up well as lower class gowns; you don't have to spend a lot to get good results.


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:29 am

Alice the Huswyf wrote:Recut your green fabric and try the smock in that. Just join the two front halves to make a flat piece. Smocks are very comfortable to sleep in. All joking aside, if you have a source for decent old wool bankets, they make up well as lower class gowns; you don't have to spend a lot to get good results.

Found just over metre square (3ft?) of plain fabric at bottom of my sewing box....that will be enough won't it? I'm only a tiny 5ft1 if I stand up straight.
And Alice you've given me a new word of the month 'Bergundian'. :)



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby sally » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:39 am

possibly not enough, you need room enough in the hem to allow you to move around, that doesnt quite sound enough. Got an old sheet?



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:42 am

sally wrote:possibly not enough, you need room enough in the hem to allow you to move around, that doesnt quite sound enough. Got an old sheet?

Nope. But will pop down to town to pound shop and get one hopefully at weekend.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby sally » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:50 am

in the meantime, got a teddy to make clothes for? Very handy for getting the feel of the shapes for a garment in a smaller scale, and your current bit of fabric will make loads of teddy clothes (and you are never too grown up to make clothes for toys ;) )



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:00 am

sally wrote:in the meantime, got a teddy to make clothes for? Very handy for getting the feel of the shapes for a garment in a smaller scale, and your current bit of fabric will make loads of teddy clothes (and you are never too grown up to make clothes for toys ;) )

Yep. Will have to get her out of her box. ;)
She plays music you know. And have to ask me mum to get my dolls down from the loft.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Tue Aug 09, 2011 1:07 pm

Becuase of the size, although it is cheaper to learn dressmaking by experimenting on dolls, it is technically harder, being a bit fiddly. That's why it's a very good way to learn becuase scaling up for people sizes means although the pieces are larger, it is easier to manouvre the fabric.


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby frances » Tue Aug 09, 2011 8:50 pm

I think I saw a bunch of busks on Ebay couple of days ago. 6 in wood and 6 in (poss) bone.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby gossip » Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:43 am

I love sewing but I didn't bring almost any crafting materials over here holiday away from home) and was struggling the other day, trying to turn a waist-coat into some kind of a sexy top, cause I found out I haven't brought any sexy clothes either and you never know when there will be a date scheduled on your calendar :D But I don't have a dummy and very few needles and pins, so had to sew it together roughly to see what alterations to make and then everything else took so long! I left it roughly sewn to finish some other day. I miss my sewing machine :'(
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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:35 pm

The very best fitting of all is if someone can fit you on your own body - dummies only go so far. To be honest the time you have spent will be well rewarded in end result: I used to be able to run out literally sets of kid's panto costumes, but now prefer the actual process of making . I think the wise thing to do is what you are doing - make against later need, becuase if you have it, an ocassion to wear it will come up - however waiting for the ocassion either means a rush or saying no. That way you get to enjoy the doing and the wearing.


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Wed Aug 10, 2011 2:28 pm

Alice the Huswyf wrote:The very best fitting of all is if someone can fit you on your own body - dummies only go so far. To be honest the time you have spent will be well rewarded in end result: I used to be able to run out literally sets of kid's panto costumes, but now prefer the actual process of making . I think the wise thing to do is what you are doing - make against later need, becuase if you have it, an ocassion to wear it will come up - however waiting for the ocassion either means a rush or saying no. That way you get to enjoy the doing and the wearing.

I always have an occasion to wear a nice dress (and if I don't I'll make one ;) lol!)

Managed to get 190cmx137cm sheet for £4.99 in a sale....
and I found some pretty braid I couldn't resist. :?
Image
They had some in green, red and blue too.

It annoys me so much of it involves needing someone else to help with fitting when I want to make something for myself, and well.....to be honest I have no one. My sister is hardly there and my mum is either 'too busy' or spends the whole time being negative and telling me I'm doing it all wrong.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Shadow7cat » Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:54 pm

Like I said before, tell me where you live and we'll see what we can arrange. I live in London, and when the little local difficulty has resolved itself, I'm sure you would enjoy a day trip!

Suzi



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:10 am

Shadow7cat wrote:Like I said before, tell me where you live and we'll see what we can arrange. I live in London, and when the little local difficulty has resolved itself, I'm sure you would enjoy a day trip!

Suzi

Hope you stayed safe. I know someone who lives in croydon and they could see the smoke rising from where they were. :o

On a lighter note my material arrived from ebay
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v28/i ... C09095.jpg
the cream material was I think something like £1.99..so I bought ti to make toile with...but its actually quite nice. Got 3 metres so maybe use it for ball gown?



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Shadow7cat » Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:26 am

I don't think three metres would make a ball gown - don't skimp if you are making posh clothes, which a ball gown is. Three metres, depending on the width, might make a skirt. I've just scraped by with 5 metres of 56" wide - don't know the CM- for an 18th century gown, with no leftovers!

S.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby ladydetemps » Thu Aug 11, 2011 11:41 am

Shadow7cat wrote:I don't think three metres would make a ball gown - don't skimp if you are making posh clothes, which a ball gown is. Three metres, depending on the width, might make a skirt. I've just scraped by with 5 metres of 56" wide - don't know the CM- for an 18th century gown, with no leftovers!

S.

I suppose that means its not enough for an open robe (without train but with short sleeves)?
Like http://www.songsmyth.com/eveningdresses.html#robes



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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Thu Aug 11, 2011 12:01 pm

If it is wide fabric (50" wide), you will just get a regency ball gown out of it with careful cutting, as your picture looks like a size 12.

Look in your inbox fro an emergency design scheme in case you have bought a narrower width fabric (45" ).


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Grymm » Thu Aug 11, 2011 12:52 pm

ladydetemps wrote: What is a 'gore', and what is 'burgundian'?


Burgundian =o)
Image


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Re: Sewing projects

Postby frances » Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:59 pm

and I thought that it was a nice picture of a clear blue sky!

On a more serious note, I am in Croydon too and now have to go shopping for food (fingers crossed that the shops are open and that there is some food in them). I have heard that a great many shops have been burned out, and I have had an appeal to join a clear-up team and also for children's and babies clothes for the families who lived above the shops and who were burned out.



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Re: Sewing projects

Postby Grymm » Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:01 pm

Projects WIP
Lace 10x buttonholes on CB vent of Black 1730/40 frock coat
Buttonholes and pocket flaps on 1740s sailors waistcoat
Ditto 2x Civilian waistcoats, one sleeved one not.
Split and 'pointhole' lace CB on 1740's waistcoat that seems to have 'shrunk' over the last year.
Reblock sailors tricorn add lining and sweatband
Silver lace Nob Tricorn and reline

In kit form (ie not cut out yet) 1540s working mans outfit must be done for mid sept =o/
mid14thC and mid15thC so the missus don't nag me at muddyevil events for wearing Henrican doublet & hose :roll: Like anyone's noticed in 5yrs

Pie in the sky 1690s kit*, 1790s kit Victorian/Steampunk kit


*may actually have to happen if I get another Baroque event as I'm not wearing crappy Angels hire stuff again BLEURGH!


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