Silk fabrics

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Dathi
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Silk fabrics

Postby Dathi » Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:04 pm

Having a had a fairly good trawl on here and not finding a firm answer I thought I'd ask.

I'm looking at silk for a both a lining and an outer fabric for mid 17th Century but I'm pretty aware that dupion is out. What would people use?

I'm also looking at the silk/other mixes like chamlet but there's no obvious contender.

I'm also wondering if raw silk is OK for use?



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Shadowcat
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Re: Silk fabrics

Postby Shadowcat » Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:11 pm

You might find that silk taffeta or silk satin are what you need. Taffeta is crisp, whereas satin is softer in appearance. (Think of the paintings of Anthony Van Dyck, Peter Lely or similar.) Personally I prefer to work with taffeta, but that has no historical basis - I just prefer it.

S.



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Drachelis
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Re: Silk fabrics

Postby Drachelis » Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:49 pm

the new power loomed silk dupion is far smoother and doesn't have hardly any slubs - otherwise I would agree on tafetta

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frances
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Postby frances » Sat Jul 31, 2010 5:10 am

mid 17thc - are you going for the grand court look or everyday wear for a rich person? I never like the way that modern satin finish looks - that very glassy hard shine.

Are you going for solid colour, shot silk or a brocade? Is the outfit being worn outside in the sunshine, or only indoors in dimly lit rooms with maybe candles. Do you also want to have loads of braids or to rely on the richness of the fabrics to look wonderful?

So many things to make decisions on.

I suggest that you look at as many portraits as possible and then go and visit a few in galleries to see the actual colours. Reproductions in books and on the internet tend to distort the real colours.



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lidimy
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Re: Silk fabrics

Postby lidimy » Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:23 am

From my research into 17thC clothing, gold/tan, silver and deep to sky blues seem to be fashionable, with the occasional blacks and brocades.

Like Frances said, the satins have a wonderful soft shine and are often richly ornamented with braids and ribbons or set off with contrasting coloured satins - including satin linings.

From what images I have collected (which are mainly from 1650 -1680) silk satin is the dominating silk, though that may just be a reflection on what was fashionable than what was worn from day to day?

Hope that helps (:


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Dathi
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Re: Silk fabrics

Postby Dathi » Sat Aug 07, 2010 5:34 pm

Yep. Thanks for the advice. Silk Satin it is then..;-)

Out of Interest. In the Rathaus in Osnabruck there is a room with pictures of all the men who signed the Westphalian Peace Treaty of 1648 hang, about 40 pictures in all. Only 4 or 5 of them are showing men in any other colour than black. The 4 or 5 pictures not wearing black are in red, possibly a scarlet but I'm not sure how bright the red is....!

I'm still puzzling over a Chamlet look alike. I've seen silk/wool mixes and wonder if that would do....

Found this http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... 648%29.jpg

Looking at it I can see black, grey and a possible green, red cloaks and coats and a buffcoat with green sleeves. I'm also seeing how the sheen of cloth is being shown. I'm fairly sure of wools and silks..



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Shadowcat
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Re: Silk fabrics

Postby Shadowcat » Sat Aug 07, 2010 7:00 pm

Have another look at the buff coat. I think you will find that it is sleeveless, and the silk sleeves you see are part of the gentleman's suit - look at the legs.

Many "business" men, burghers and city officials wore black - see pictures by Rembrandt of the same period, roughly. You will find the same goes for those "city" portraits all over Western Europe. It seems to indicate that they are worthy and sober citizens. (The gold lace shows that they are rich too!)

S.




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