Belt for Burgundian gown

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ValTarrant
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Belt for Burgundian gown

Postby ValTarrant » Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:17 pm

I portray a senior woman servant in a silk woman's household around 1480 and I'm just about to make a belt for a Burgundian gown. I will be making it in black wool and I have bought buckle MB25 from Mercia Sveiter which will allow me to make the belt 75 mm wide. I can't decide how long to make it, how to finish the end and what to decorate it with (If anything at all).

I have had a look around the images on Karen Larsdatter's site and it hasn't really helped me. Can anyone either suggest a source for information or give me some ideas about what would be suitable.

Thanks

Val



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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Belt for Burgundian gown

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Wed Oct 14, 2009 3:34 pm

You can have short ones, and you can have long ones. From wearing one, the practicality of the matter seems to me to be short one (sometimes fastened at the front) if you dress yourself. Long one fastened at the back if you have help dressing. Very long ones need to be floppy which would suggest embroidered cloth ones - and often they are.


Is it 'coz I is middewl clarse, aih?


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Jackie Phillips
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Re: Belt for Burgundian gown

Postby Jackie Phillips » Thu Oct 15, 2009 8:52 am

I've only made short ones, but I've found they need to be fabric covered leather, otherwise as soon as you sit down or bend over, they simply crumple and stay crumpled.

Jackie


Trust your instincts, whatever else you do.

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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Belt for Burgundian gown

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:22 am

I've made stiffened fabric ones, but you have to judge the width with care according to the figure type - extra wide under a generous bosom WILL bend! Slight girls get away with two layers of wool and a linen interlining and just a tight wrap.


Is it 'coz I is middewl clarse, aih?

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GinaB
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Re: Belt for Burgundian gown

Postby GinaB » Thu Oct 15, 2009 4:38 pm

It's also worth remembering that the fancier the materials, the more expensive the girdle. Therefore, the wearer is less likely to actually be doing things such as bending and will certainly be sitting with good posture. The extant finely woven silk girdles do not show any evidence of having been lined or stiffened, but behaving in a good and lady-like way would not require it.

If you do choose a long girdle ( if you're a servant a long one will get in the way though) don't stiffen or line the section which hangs down. When you see these types of girdles in art they often show both sides (as the girdle turns) and both appear to be the same (usually a weave which is apparent on both sides). It isn't usual to see images in art which are obviously a piece of fabric cut to size (most appear to be girdles specially woven for the purpose), though I do know of one which appears to a silk damask cut down, so having a long girdle would mean that you would see the hems, unless you made it in a tube shape.

Be careful too of embroidery. The fashion did tend to be monochromatic for this period. There may be some artistic instances where they appear to be embroidered, but this really hasn't been studied fully as far as I'm aware anyway (always need new sources though! :) )



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Alice the Huswyf
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Re: Belt for Burgundian gown

Postby Alice the Huswyf » Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:09 pm

I have only seen instances of embroidery as overstated buttonholes worked, according to the illustrations, in gold to match the fitments.


Is it 'coz I is middewl clarse, aih?


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