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Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:17 pm
I am making a dress based loosely on Janet Arnolds patterns of fashion 1, page 36/37, but with pleated cuffs as page 26/27, pattern c. But I can not work out how the cuffs are attached?
As looking at the drawing it looks like there would be a gap between the bottom of the sleeve and the inside bottom of the cuff?
Any help would be appreciated
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 1:03 am
I've had a look at the relevant pages. It seems to me that the base sleeve with it's integral lining is made up first. Then the separate cuffs are piped and I'd suggest lined [although no mention of lining is made here]. This would then be stitched onto the made up sleeve along the dotted line - so yes, there would be a 'flap' of the main sleeve cuff under the superimposed cuff. To attach it, I'd use small running stitches. Then the upper and lower cuff pleating pieces are folded in half lengthwise and stitched through all layers along the same line with small running stitches. The 13/4" wide crossways strip of striped silk [which appears to be piped, but this isn't mentioned] is stitched down to hide the raw edges of the upper and lower pleated frills. I would probably stab stitch through the pipe seam onto the frill only [really thick otherwise] on both sides to make sure nothing of the other work beneath it shows.
Hope this helps
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:07 pm
Put the sleeve and the lining together, with the lining inside, wrong sides facing. Turn the hem allowances in so that they are trapped on the inside of the two parts, then edge stitch together with tiny stitches. Do not pipe.
Make up the cuff with its linen facing in the same way. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve end as marked using the same tiny edge stitches. Do not pipe. The cuff will be bigger than the sleeve end, and needs anchoring where the gap comes. There will be a nice space which you can catch on door handles, tree branches and so on.
Pleat up to a suitable size and stitch through the pleats to hold in position. I have a rough calico version I made up for a fitting - if you want I can take photos and e-mail them- need an addy.
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:24 pm
pictures might help but will give it a go with isnstuctions so far, I made somthing simiular some years ago but did not take pic, which was complete guess work from a black and white print for a dress lable scotish wedding dress late 1700 (tin box patterns)