making hose

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red razors
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making hose

Post by red razors »

just wondering, can anyone who has already made cloth hose [as in stockings] tell me if there's a particular kind of wool that would be best? or do i just need something thin and soft?

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lidimy
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Post by lidimy »

I was told to judge the wool by its stretchiness on the bias... the more stretchy, the better. And also to avoid thin 'hard' wools and go for the softer thicker type.


:D
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red razors
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Post by red razors »

ah, right. i just have SOOOOO much wool and if i knew what i was to look for it might prevent me having to buy some more. which would be an utter tragedy, as well you know ;)

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lidimy
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Post by lidimy »

Though you might feel better if, you know, you just got some special hose wool :wink:
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Margareta
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Post by Margareta »

Also, cut it in bias. Then it will stretch even better.

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CeDeBe
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Post by CeDeBe »

Yes, I'll second - Does anyone have a name to go with their wool suggestion at all?

We had a lady down under weave some hose material (based on an average thread count from period finds) and woven by hand (in worsted wool) the style the finds were woven in, and this was unbelievably stretchy! It stretched almost double on the bias, and we have nothing to match it down here other than modern knits.

So please, PPWSOT! what do you northern hemisphere types use?

I'm sick of hose that won't stretch properly over my cankles!

Cheers

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ViscontesseD'Asbeau
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Post by ViscontesseD'Asbeau »

If woolen, you probably want something that's not heavily fulled too - if you can still see the weave it's more likely to have some give.

We've done medieval and later and sometimes for the later, they can be linen so stretchiness doesn't even come into it (held up be various other means). Not sure if by 'stockings' you mean something later than medieval? If so, the stretchiness doesn't matter - and you can knit them Elizabethan and onwards which makes life SOOOO much easier. Or use linen or wool as they don;t have to hold themselves up.

If doing earlier period, as others say, wool cut on the bias. Just test them and find your stretchiest!

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Alice the Huswyf
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Post by Alice the Huswyf »

Medium to lightweight twill works best, but cut on the bias (twill scan have some lateral stretch, but ignore it and cut on bias as for a tabby weave).

Make several pairs in one go - it is easier than patching where the toe eventually pokes through or where the balls of your feet wear the wool away!

Don't forget to allow enough excess when fitting at the back of the ankle to allow your heel to get in and out. You may need to take in the top , thigh part of the back seam after a couple of wears if your fabric stretches, otherwise no matter how carefully you roll the tops, they flop over your garter like pirate bucket-top boots. Not pretty.

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Post by Margareta »

Well, the top does fall down over the garter no matter what. (But then again, so it did originally, too.) I make the hose/sock come only a little bit over the knee so the bucket-boot effect stays minimum. Besides, nobody will see the tops of my hose anyway, since I am a very decent woman. :)

I have used different wools: unfulled, slightly fulled and the thick fulled overcoat fabrics. Everything works as long as you cut them bias. The wool fabrics are woven as twills nowadays -I haven´t seen a single bit of woollen tabby weave, some satins, though- so they are stretchy on their own.
It is important to try the stocking on often while sewing it together, after every three or four inches is quite good. That way the result will be best-fitting.

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lidimy
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Post by lidimy »

The tops of my hose don't fall over my garters... :?
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Hraefn
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Post by Hraefn »

For the foot you can go stirrup or footed, and if'n you go footed I've found that a 'clocked' pattern gives a better fit than vamp and sole............. Oh damnblastandhairyarse now I've got to try and explain 'clocked' and 'vamp and sole'. Err I'll be back, best explained in pictures just go and see if I can find some.
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Post by Margareta »

Perharps "fall" is a wrong term, but at least the tops of mine turn down, over the garters. Then again, I don´t really care if the top is a bit loose, as long as I can get my feet past the ankle bit, not have many lumps on the sole -and get my large-ish ankle tattoo hidden... And have enough knee-bending room to crouch and run (and possibly kick).
(My calves do measure 47 cm (about 18,5 inches) and my knee only 37 cm (14,6 inch.), so that migh explain it...)

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lidimy
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Post by lidimy »

Lol yep - when I made mine I was happily fitting away, thinking how lovely and slim my ankles would look,

...


tried to pull the damn thing off.....



:lol: :lol: :lol:

Baggy ankles it is!
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Margareta
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Post by Margareta »

One young gentleman I know did the whole late 14th century kit -short jacket and tight, tight hose- and he solved the loose ankle problem by leaving open slits on the ankles, so that he could put the socks on. After that the slits were simply sewn shut. When he wanted to take his hosen off, someone had to carefully open the stitches for him... But they fitted him like, well, a glove (and he does have very nice legs). AFAIK that is the only way to get the perfect fit with original materials.
Then again, who is going to notice our legs, nice or not, under all those dresses..? :(

(Oh, by the way, this London pattern is the one I use: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~Marc-Ca ... ondon.html

The best way to get all the measurements right is to stand on a table and have someone else to measure your leg.)
Last edited by Margareta on Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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lidimy
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Post by lidimy »

You've just got to look for the right opportunity, and exploit it :wink:

I like the sewing-shut idea. Might be worth experimenting with, though my boots cover up my ankles anyway!
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red razors
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Post by red razors »

all this advice is much appreciated! :)

viscountess - for hose, i mean tudor. i'll get some knitted stockings too but i'd like to have some ones i made myself.

i'm a bit clueless when it comes to wool types... i know twill -vs- tabby but i couldn't tell you if the wool i have is a melton, worsted, broadcloth, or whatever other kinds of wool there are. the stuff i have is a bit like felt, fuzzy with a short nap. and soft.

hraefn - i think i get what you mean by "vamp and sole" :)

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ViscontesseD'Asbeau
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Post by ViscontesseD'Asbeau »

Ah Tudor - no you can use anything you want to make them, as you can use garters to keep them up anyways. Lot of the folk here do medieval so when you say 'hose' they're thinking of summat different. Some 17thC folk use linen, some wool. TBH I'd use whatever I had to hand so long as it isn't scratchy. :lol:

I find my 17thC stockings stay up best if I tie below the knee rather than above (you can do either for that period). We found some very broad slubby silk tape which works great as garters and it's yellow, like Malvolio's cross garters in Twelfth Night! Think if you knit some, or buy some knitted (think Sally here does them?) you won't go back to cloth, however!
Am still knitting mine (am doing some other knitting so the stockings have had to go on hold) but made my worser half some Gunnister stockings last year and they seem to be surviving so far.
:lol:

red razors
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Post by red razors »

yeah, i knew if i just said "hose" it would cause confusion; thought the addition of [the admittedly vague] "stockings" would clarify it a little.
have checked out sally's ones and they look great; i just have notions about attempting to make at least one version of stuff i buy :) except leatherware, woodware, etc. anything you can make from fabric, like.

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Alice the Huswyf
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Post by Alice the Huswyf »

Hose = men's trousers

half-hose = 'stockings'

red razors
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Post by red razors »

ah, semantics semantics :wink: "is it a gig or an event?" "it is kit or clothing?" etc :D

maybe i should have said NETHER-STOCKS to start with and saved us all the confusion!

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Post by Margareta »

So many different terms... I just call them "socks"... :oops: (Then again, so does everyone else here -we simply don´t have many separate words for clothes, a dress is simply a "dress", no matter if it´s a kirtle or a cotehardie...)

I have always tied the socks below my knees. They just don´t stay up if tied above. And I will probably make one pair for the winter without the foot part -kind of legwarmers to be worn over the "real hose" . I´ll leave the ankle loose enough so I can pull it over the tops of my shoes. It is not unusual that in January/February the temperatures drop below -15 degrees (Celsius) or even -20, even though I live down south. The cold creeps quickly up your legs if you stand still for a few minutes, so every layer counts. Felted woollen loose soles worn inside the boots have saved a lot of toes.

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Post by Tuppence »

was about to say what kind of hosen, but since you've answered that, something fairly thin, and not scratchy.
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