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To toile, or not to toile.....

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 6:57 pm
by Random Mumblings
....that is the question?

I'm making a fairly fitted jacket. Sizing looks about right by eye, but I'm not 100% sure as I've never made one like it before. The actual fabric I'm using isn't *that* expensive. Now I know I *should* make a toile to check the fit, right?

BUT I don't have enough of anything supercheap to use for a toile, so I'd have to go and buy something to use. I object to spending money on something I won't be able to wear, so....

...should I just wing it, cut big seam allowances and hope it's okay?

OR be a sensible girl, buy some really cheap polycotton or something and do it properly with a toile?

Re: To toile, or not to toile.....

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:22 pm
by Shadowcat
Random Mumblings wrote:....that is the question?

I'm making a fairly fitted jacket. Sizing looks about right by eye, but I'm not 100% sure as I've never made one like it before. The actual fabric I'm using isn't *that* expensive. Now I know I *should* make a toile to check the fit, right?


OR be a sensible girl, buy some really cheap polycotton or something and do it properly with a toile?
Or go to your nearest charity shop and buy some yucky curtains or sheets for a pittance..................?

I am a professional seamstress. Making for me I think I can wing it - don't you believe it. Three failures later, I made a toile - result - it fits!!

S.

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:43 pm
by seamsmistress
........ Making for me I think I can wing it - don't you believe it.

What she said. If you're not 100% certain it'll be okay, do the toile, because no matter how inexpensive the main fabric, if it's screwed in the process you'll be very peeved!

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:55 pm
by Random Mumblings
:roll: I knew you'd bloody say that. I obviously therefore just needed a virtual kick up the botty as I know you're right, but a teensy bit of me hoped you'd all say, "Nah! Feck it, just wing it, you'll be fine!" :lol:

Shall go buy cheap stuff tomorrow.


(Cheap charity shop stuff?! Tried that once before and our local one was trying to charge seven bloody quid for a second hand single sheet! :shock: I can get one for less than a fiver brand new in Tescos. )

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:46 pm
by red razors
errrrr, i say wing it lol! i made a toile for my kirtle bodice, and when i cut and pinned the real fabric, it was all wrong :roll:

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 11:51 pm
by Tuppence
I am a professional seamstress. Making for me I think I can wing it - don't you believe it. Three failures later, I made a toile - result - it fits!!
Ahem - I am also a professional. making for other people without a toile - problem once out of a hundred.

Making for me without a toile, wrong every bloody time....

Actually I'd say get some cheapo stuff to make a toile if you're the least bit uncertain. Will save mega frustration later.

Then recycle the toile by cutting it up into cleaning cloths.

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:01 am
by Hon_Kitty
Another seamstress....

Toile - made one up for OH's Regency greatcoat.
Same toile has now been used for four more of the same design for other people (cos I'm cheap like that :shock: )

If you unpick the tacking carefully when you've finished it, it's a dmn sight more robust than your average tissue paper.
Don't look on it as a hardship, look at it as a long term investment :lol:

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:28 am
by Random Mumblings
Hon_Kitty wrote: Don't look on it as a hardship, look at it as a long term investment :lol:
Yes, I do know where you are coming from, but the likelihood of me ever having to make another Victorian jacket is pretty remote, considering we are Vike reenactors. :wink: The jacket is for a party. I think I shall probably go stash diving and see if I've got any cheap cotton or twill left over from something that I can use...then if it does fit I can maybe still wear it.....somewhere or other!

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:48 am
by Hon_Kitty
... ha, ha, ha - bitter and ironical laughter - that's how it begins you know.

Oh yes (further hollow laugh) I well remember making a 1770s polonaise just for larks because we quite fancied dressing up to go to the Regency Ball in Bath. Now fully paid-up Napoleonic re-enactors.

Not to mention the possibility that you will make the thing, put it on, and think DAMN! that looks good..... might make another one of them for Christmas/parties/going out....

ON the other hand it might just be me that does that kind of thing :oops:

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:51 am
by Dave B
I've previously made toiles / experiments out of bedsheets. Either old ones or they have crappy pollycotton bedding sets for about £3 on our market.

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 10:04 am
by Miss Costello
There are some things I'd make without-but for anything fitted or lined I'd always Toile.

K

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 2:38 pm
by Alice the Huswyf
I'm with the others on toiles, and Kitty on keeping them. I take a pattern from everything now - saves a lot of time as you have ready-cut pieces to remake from or to swap and use in a another concoction. This is the secret of sewing without running clear out of swear-words to utilise!

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:02 pm
by Miss Costello
The tension has bust on my hand turning singer.
I can never run out of curses!!!!

(Halfway through a b****** b*******d project!!!) :x :x :x :x :x :x :x

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:53 pm
by lucy the tudor
No one has made any jokes about toiles being just hard work badly spelled yet...
so I couldn't help myself
sorry.
Lucy
ps lousy news about the machine, they certainly know how to pick their moments, usually three in the morning when what you are making needs to be worn later that day...

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:35 pm
by lidimy
FINE.

Rumbly should make a toile because she doesn't want to toil over something that wont fit.


Happy now, Lucy? :lol:

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:35 pm
by mally ley
If you really don't think you'll make another one, you can always use the toile as lining or interlining (assuming it's a natural fabric, not poly - tho' I suppose if it's for a one off then it won't matter ... )

But, having properly fitting pattern pieces, that can be used to base lots of other bits of kit on, that won't need holding together with selotape, that you'll put away somewhere safe (you know, one of those safe places, with the receipts of all the things that have broken down, the tape measure, the spare button for your favourite jacket - the I-know-I've-got-one-somewhere place) ... priceless

Sorry Rumbly - bow to the inevitable, you got to do it.

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:12 pm
by frances
Oh yes, I just have to agree with the others. Especially as I have just made a late Regency red wool spencer. Made a tiole (!!). Fitted it, made the jacket, lovely. But I had forgotten to look at the neckline on the toile, and it is a bit too low!! Oh *******.

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 7:37 am
by lucy the tudor
yes thanks Lidy :D
Lucy

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 10:25 pm
by mogey
Jumble sales usually have loads of sheets etc ... our local ones usually sells sheets for around 20-30p :)

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 7:16 pm
by Jackie Phillips
If you've got lots of bits and pieces of leftovers, the toile doesn't have to be made out of matching fabric.....

Posted: Wed May 21, 2008 12:11 am
by Tuppence
Good pouint - I made one for a fitting yesterday in at least three fabrics.

Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:29 am
by auldMotherBegg
You're gong to toil whether or not you make a toile... (geddit? :roll: ) Ooops... sorry, Lidimy, just realised you got there first! :oops:

But no, really, I would use old linen or 100% cotton sheets, and use it for a liner if you are only going to make one garment. Otherwise, save it for reference when you make more.

Well worth it in the end.
PS Good luck!