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Turnback cuffs ... Help! I'm stuck!

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:38 pm
by RottenCad
Hi - desparately needing help!

I'm trying to create a sleeve with a turnback cuff. This involves three layers of cloth - outer, lining and cuff. But I'm blowed if I can work out how to sew it so that when I turn the whole thing the right way out, the cuff is showing properly, and the hems are hidden ...

Any help gratefully received!

thanks,

Cad

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:57 pm
by seamsmistress
Okay, am assuming you have a two part sleeve as in upper and under sleeve and therefore 2 sleeve seams?

Simplest solution [but not necessarily most authentic - that will depend upon period] is to make up outer sleeve and lining sleeve.
1. Place outer sleeve into outer armhole and lining sleeve into lining armhole.
2. Now, match the raw edges of outer and lining at the hem edge of the sleeve. Pin or stitch to hold them together.
3 Make the vertical seams on your turnup cuff [could be one seam if it's on the fold at the forearm seam, or two if forearm seam is seamed]. If the cuff is lined, finish the turned edges.
4.Turn the cuff the wrong side out so you can see the seams [or lining if lined] and place it inside the sleeve so the right side of the cuff is facing the lining and the hems match, making sure you match the forearm and outer arm seam up. Stitch.
5. Now pull out cuff and turn up. Finish cuff edges as preferred if cuff is unlined.

NB - This is best done when the rest of the garment is finished, ie. The fronts and hems are turned and the collar is on.

There are other methods, but as I said, it depends on the period. [/list]

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:11 pm
by Shadowcat
Interesting - I always finish sleeves before sewing in, then neaten lining at the armhole seam.

S.

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 5:51 pm
by seamsmistress
Shadowcat said
Interesting - I always finish sleeves before sewing in, then neaten lining at the armhole seam
Yes, we do that on occasion aswell, particularly gowns with small armholes :) . Here, the method we use depends on what we're making and which period. As we don't know what period item Cad is making and he mentions cuff as only one layer, I thought it might be best to use the cuff to turn the hem, as it were. We do this when adding a fur cuff to a medieval sleeve for instance. Doesn't work well for houndsear cuffs though......... :!:

BTW, sorry I didn't have chance to talk to you properly at TORM........twas a bit manic, one way and another :wink:

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:21 am
by Shadowcat
seamsmistress wrote: BTW, sorry I didn't have chance to talk to you properly at TORM........twas a bit manic, one way and another :wink:
Don't worry about it - I was escorting an American (SCA - shhsh) friend, who was open mouthed at the range of stuff available, and I wasn't able to spend time with the people I wanted to. Another time, another market?

S.

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:42 am
by RottenCad
Well, the period is pseudo-Georgian, based on a 1745 pattern. I was getting terribly confused about which order to put the layers in. I also thought I'd get the chance to try your excellent suggestion last night, but alas! I spent 6 hours creating a financial projection for a funding application!

I will try this out tonight though, and let you know the results. Many thanks both!

TTFN,

Cad

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:49 am
by seamsmistress
Well, the period is pseudo-Georgian, based on a 1745 pattern
In that case, is the cuff open at the outside arm, or fully closed?

The method I suggested would be okay for fully closed, but if open, you may see the turned seam at the edges. Also, if open, I'd definitely use more than one layer of fabric unless it's so stiff it stands up on its own, because it's likely to end up too floppy and not stay in place properly.

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:35 pm
by RottenCad
It's open; I'm thinking (more than likely incorrectly) that there will be three layers of fabric in the turnback - the lining, the sleeve material and the cuff fabric on the outside.

Not sure I'm making sense ...!?!?!

Cad

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:43 pm
by Tuppence
Cad, don't have your e-mail, so mail me and will send you some how-to photos
Interesting - I always finish sleeves before sewing in, then neaten lining at the armhole seam.
Strange, cos (apart from padding) that's what I do too.

It's the old tailoring way of doing it.

Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 3:39 pm
by RottenCad
Thanks 2d - have mailed your business enquiries address.

Cad