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Fabric for a regency outfit

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:05 pm
by sally
So, having got our tickets for the Regency Ball, I'm now committed to making his and hers outfits suitable for strolling around Bath in, then going to a dancing lesson and tea, then a ball in the evening.

Thought I'd do the ubiquitous white cotton frock and underpinnings as a good staple (linen for the underthings though, right?), with a spencer and bonnet for the daytime bit and a silk robe to go over the frock for the evening, but could do with some knowledgeable hints on choosing appropriate fabric.

For Gareth, well, I'm still dithering about what he should wear, open to ideas on an outfit that will transfer from day to evening with minor changes.

I'm aiming for as accurate as is sensibly possible for an event we're treating as a day's fun diversion - we arent planning on seriously taking up Regency events, so I'm probably not looking at the top end replica fabrics, just something that will pass muster as well as can be achieved on a modest budget. :D

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:16 pm
by Lady Cecily
Freshly imported silks from India should do you nicely.





pop down to your local sari shop

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:46 pm
by Shadowcat
White cotton muslin, "Egyptian muslin" is in MacCulloch and Wallis, and is totally suitable for the frock. A short pair of stays can be worn - pm me for recommendations - I saw a beauty when researching this period at the DAR Museum in Washington.

For the silk, be very careful with Indian silks, as they should not have the " paisley" pattern for early Regency. However, a sari's worth of silk is sufficient for a robe, and there is evidence in paintings for the use.

For Gareth, wool, wool, wool. Linen shirt and cravat, velvet stock if liked, wool trousers for day, silk or wool for evening - Harmsworth's doeskin or similar are the best, but you can get that type of wool elsewhere, smooth and tight weave - the hems and edges were often left unfinished as the edges did not fray - the wool was so well fulled.

Am happy to advise if you pm me - tomorrow I am going to the Museum of London to study some "Jane Austen" period clothing!

S.

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:00 pm
by drew
For her http://www.sensibility.com/pattern/spen ... rnhelp.htm
http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimage ... agetwo.htm

I would try to stay away from the boring white based dress for your night out, fine for the day with your Spencer but for the night you need to out shine the others. Colours where everywhere. Gold braid and tassels, velvet…ohh Red velvet with gold trim, low cut, tight waist….sorry, carried away a little. Go on, you say that you are not going to do the Regency thing seriously so make your first time a “Big Bang” time, you’ll love it.

For him http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Re ... ncyMen.htm

http://www.thetophatshop.com/history4.asp


My fav for her http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimage ... te1805.jpg


For the evening event your Mr Gareth must be directed towards Beau Bromell and the style of men’s tailoring he led. A Black frock coat with maybe black velvet collar and cuffs, a white Irish linen neck tie, a silk flamboyant waist coat with white full length leggings…as tight as you can make them without stopping “serviceability”, a thin leather strap and buckle attached to the foot end of the leggings to be slipped under the shoe and tied to help keep them pulled down and smart. On his feet, simple black court shoe, slip on if possible and as snug as possible.

For the daytime man-about-town look you could simply change the leggings for a more less fitting type of a buff colour and if your purse can go to it a fine pair of Brown Topper Boots http://www.sutlers.co.uk/acatalog/Footwear.html


Hope this helps

Drew

Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:38 pm
by Tuppence
For the evening, an over layer for the white muslin would be fabulous in machine made tulle. (The tulle in a colour.)

I have some pictures in a book - remind me next week after the market, and I'll let you have copies of the pics.

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 1:52 am
by frances
But plain white is so boring! Think of all those Jane Austen types twittering on about spotted muslin and sprigged muslin or white with white check etc etc. What about a pale colour for the day with a darker version in transluscent fabric over the top for the evening. Most people will see you at the ball from the back - and luckily Regency people also thought a lot about back detail.

Also I would strongly advise against a bonnet with a big brim - you will not be able to see out to cross the road!! Or take sneaky views of what everyone else is wearing. Go for a turban or a jockey cap-type. There are plently of fashion plates on the Regency websites.

(If you lived nearer London I would suggest that you come over and browse my costume shelves: I have about a metre of Regency books.)

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 7:55 am
by sally
ooh, lots of ideas, this is so much fun :)

Re: Fabric for a regency outfit

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:43 pm
by Karen Larsdatter
There's a company that's been selling lightweight cottons printed in India on eBay; I have a pale yellow print at home that's partially a Regency dress at the moment. :)

http://stores.ebay.com/Heritage-Trading

(look in the fabric section)

Re: Fabric for a regency outfit

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 7:53 pm
by sally
Karen Larsdatter wrote:There's a company that's been selling lightweight cottons printed in India on eBay; I have a pale yellow print at home that's partially a Regency dress at the moment. :)

http://stores.ebay.com/Heritage-Trading

(look in the fabric section)
ooh, I like this one, I have no idea if its appropriate though
http://tinyurl.com/2nxsjf

I think I have a soft green silk sari in my stash somewhere, so I may be getting there for the evening frock, but I do like the flowery cotton idea for daytime. Educate me someone, is this way off the mark?

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:45 pm
by Shadowcat
Just saw a print dress at the Museum of LOndon this afternoon, plus a doll size corset - beautiful!! So prints are O.K. but it depends on the print.

I could scan pictures of patterns from a book I have - next week - busy this - talk to me Sally - this is my current area of research!!

S.

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:54 pm
by sally
Shadowcat wrote:Just saw a print dress at the Museum of LOndon this afternoon, plus a doll size corset - beautiful!! So prints are O.K. but it depends on the print.

I could scan pictures of patterns from a book I have - next week - busy this - talk to me Sally - this is my current area of research!!

S.
most definately grateful for any thoughts :)

Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:50 pm
by drew
Shadowcat, could you do the same for me please?

Drew

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:56 am
by sally
I've just had some wag who knows I knit point me at this! :shock:
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=80

amazing what is out there

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:16 am
by drew
This is great: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=76

and this for the fella, get an eye full of this...I think this is going to be my next project.
http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=86


Good site find.

Drew

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:46 am
by RottenCad
You swines! Just got caught at work drooling onto the keyboard!
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Cad

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:53 pm
by Wiblick
Reconstructing History have just released a Regency Line

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/mi ... 1&w=24&r=Y

I believe they'll be available from Meekins at TORM this weekend.

Aoife

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:51 pm
by sally
I'm getting very confused about whether mens trousers ought to be fall or fly fronted :? Every time I think I've worked it out a different site or patterns says the exact opposite

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:55 pm
by sally
ooh, there is a knitted reticule shaped like a pineapple here http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/da_popup/index_e.html (in the 180s bit, dont think it links straight to it), that would be fun to do :)

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:10 pm
by Shadowcat
I have pictures of a knitted Regency shawl in similar colours!

S.

Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:22 pm
by sally
Shadowcat wrote:I have pictures of a knitted Regency shawl in similar colours!

S.
the temptataion to go dressed as a pineapple is almost overwhelming :lol: :lol: :lol:

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 12:05 am
by Lena
Shadowcat wrote:Just saw a print dress at the Museum of LOndon this afternoon, plus a doll size corset - beautiful!! So prints are O.K. but it depends on the print.

I could scan pictures of patterns from a book I have - next week - busy this - talk to me Sally - this is my current area of research!!

S.
If you have the time and opportunity to do so for me as well, it'd be extremely appreciated. I have plans for a recency outfit, possibly for autumn.

/Lena

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 12:40 am
by Shadowcat
As the book is in copyright, I need e-mail addresses. It is illegal and against copyright law to share printed matter in public.

S.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 1:14 am
by drew
Sally,

The fall front is the one you want and not the ‘zipper’ style. The latter is Victorian.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 2:57 am
by frances
Dear Sally,

The print you gave the tinyurl for above: Regency is similar, but this print is too dense, there is not enough space/background between the curling stems. They had just invented roller-printing so printed cottons were much cheaper than could be done with a set of small wooden printing blocks. By the 1830's and 40's the prints could be this dense. Think 'sparse' and 'elegant' flower prints.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 7:47 am
by sally
thanks! :D

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:36 am
by Shadowcat
One of the best places to look for examples of printed textiles in this period is http://www.amazon.com/Toiles-Jouy-Judit ... 158685156X

There are some really busy patterns and extraordinary bright colours in it.

S.

Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 11:38 pm
by Moonfleate
(deleted old photo)

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:02 am
by frances
This is an interesting discussion. I have heard people say that one should make outfits that are typical of the period, even though other things might have existed, so that they look right to everyone. Don't have an opinion on this myself.

As it happens I took a series of pics of a Regency pelisse last saturday. This is one of them. If you would like details of other bits of the coat just let me know and I will upload them to an accessible photo-storage site. The seam-lines on the back are typical of the time.

There is one dart on either side at the front, but in an unusual place. BTW I believe that darts were first used on dresses in Regency times - they were used to shape cuffs in Elizabethan and collars in the 17th century. Shadowcat will know more details about this than me, I expect.

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:57 am
by sally
frances wrote:This is an interesting discussion. I have heard people say that one should make outfits that are typical of the period, even though other things might have existed, so that they look right to everyone. Don't have an opinion on this myself. .
Hmm, interesting line of questioning, I can see both sides. However, in my case, as I'm not planning on taking up Regency re-enacting with any seriousness, but would like to be able to use the outfit again should I ever get asked to come and make up the numbers at something, I think I will be going for something fairly well recognised. I want it to be pretty, and fun to work on, and as accurate as practical (given that I will be machining long internal seams and probably using some modern cutting and assembly methods), but not unusual in the sense of it would stop it being useful without lots of explanations

That Regency pellise--fabric?

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 7:30 am
by Moonfleate
That Recency pelisse is beautiful. It has such interesting lines. Do you have a date on that item? Does any one know what types of fabrics would be used; was taffeta used?