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Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:14 am
by Shadowcat
At a guess that pelisse is probably from the 1820's. The fullness at the sleeve head is an indicator.

The fabric is probably a fine wool, or a silk - difficult to tell from the picture. Hopefully Frances will be able to give us some more details.

S.

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:00 pm
by Moonfleate
Shadowcat wrote:At a guess that pelisse is probably from the 1820's. The fullness at the sleeve head is an indicator.

The fabric is probably a fine wool, or a silk - difficult to tell from the picture. Hopefully Frances will be able to give us some more details.

S.
Yes, the waist is 'migrating' southwards, so to speak, so the 1820s makes sense. The setting-in of the sleeves is so very distinctive. I'm not familiar with the various pelisse patterns available, but has anyone run across a pattern featuring anything similar? The patterns I've seen for regency style items often focus on a high waist, whether for gown or pelisse, and then fall back on uninteresting set-in sleeves, as though the back weren't important. But I suppose that I should be looking beyond the standard Simplicity or McCalls patterns.

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 7:52 pm
by Shadowcat
Jean Hunnisett "Period Costume for Stage and Screen Outer Garments Book ll" has patterns for pelisses, coats, spencers and other outer garments (obviously). The patterns are taken from original garments, but the instructions are modern. There is a pattern for a scarlet silk pelisse of 1817 which has similar sleeves. It is more fussy, and the sleeve decoration is beautiful but complicated - it took us a couple of goes to get it right!

s.

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 9:57 pm
by frances
According to the label the pale green is silk and the date c.1815.

I was cheeky enough to turn the dress model round to photograph the back (when noone but the CCTV camera was looking), but not cheeky enough to touch the fabric to see what type of silk it was. However it said that it was on loan from Southend Museum. Anyone know anyone who works there?

By the way I was given special dispensation to take the photographs as guest speaker for the day. Also I do have lots of photographs of details of other regency dresses as I give talks and practicals on costume-making to groups of all sorts.

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:43 pm
by frances
As displacement activity (I hate doing admin and paperwork) I have been looking through my Regency outerwear files. Came across this one which might be of use to anyone making Regency clothes.

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:43 am
by sally
Just been mucking out my kit cupboard and found a length of fabric that to the best of my recollection I've never seen before in my life :oops: Its a cotton with a small blue and white check as per the pic- and there is just enough to do the skirt part of 'something'. Are checks out for regency daydresses? I have a feeling they may be, but might as well ask before consigning it to the pile of unloved fabric again

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:41 am
by Shadowcat
I do not think I have seen this kind of check used as early as Regency - later, say the 1830's, it turns up quite often. Interestingly, a check like gingham is to be found in Barbara Johnson's Album - a facsimile is/was available - which is late 18th and early 19th century.

Sally, I am about to put those colour/pattern postcards in the post any minute now (or later!)

What about this? http://www3.hants.gov.uk/austen/austen-pelisse.htm

S.

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:47 am
by sally
Thought it might be a bit late. Nil desperandum, now I know it exists it might get earmarked for a working class victorian blouse or something similar, its decent fabric, probably 1950s or 60s I suspect, shame for it to languish forever

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 11:35 pm
by frances
You could use it as piping for a dark blue or white Victorian bodice or jacket to provide detail too.

Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:39 pm
by Drachelis
That ebay shop heritage trading is awesome - I have just taken delivery of some of their trims and appliques - I am soooooo excited they are wonderful and got to me in just over a week from the US - my posh frocks are going to be even posher now!!!!!!!! - especially as I am venturing into other periods now.

If you havent looked- do -and then just drool


http://stores.ebay.com/Heritage-Trading


Cherry
Shadowlight Designs

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:58 am
by Miss Costello
So glad I found this thread!

May I divert slightly and ask if the Simplicity regency pattern is acceptable for a starter frock? I can make the stays myself and am a competent costumier but don't want to look like a sprog for my first event?
Kitty

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:33 pm
by Shadowcat
Miss Costello

The Simplicity pattern is based on proper research, then, unfortunately, modernised by the pattern company, who have added far too much ease for a period dress. You will need to make at least one dress size smaller than the pattern, but check the actual sizes on the tissue itself - don't rely on the back of the envelope. If you fit it really well, and use suitable material, and trim, and the right underwear, you could get away with it, always depending on the circumstances.

Or you could try Jean Hunnisett's "Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1800-1909" where there are patterns taken from original garments, or ditto "Cut of Women's Clothes" by Norah Waugh, or probably the best of the lot Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion 1660 - 1860".

S.

Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:46 pm
by Miss Costello
Hi Shadowcat!
Thanks for the info, to be honest I'd rather get it 100% right, thanks v much for the book reccomendations.
Kitty

Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 6:13 pm
by Miss Costello
Just wondering if everyone would reccomend the Mantua pattern for long stays?

Having just spent serious money on my late Victorian Corset, I'm making them myself and before I part with cash..... :?

I would have opted for the Sense and Sensibility short stays pattern but being a bit..um top heavy she doesn't reccomend them.

Thanks in advance
K