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Annis
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Postby Annis » Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:27 pm

Is there a similar type of fabric to this that I could use?
I'm planning on making an Elizabethan bonnet, and this is the only fabric I'm lacking.


Also, another quick Qu. What is the best economical way of making a pleated skirt? I thought about measuring my waist in inches then multiplying by 3 BUT I'm about 6 inches short on fabric for that!


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Annis x


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Annis
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Postby Annis » Wed Oct 03, 2007 8:57 pm

Would cotton twill do? (I'm thinking of what I have in my big box of tricks) Or is that just the other end of the fabric spectrum?


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Postby sally » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:01 pm

You want something soft that will fill in the 'lumpy' bits of the buckram and make a good smooth base for your top fabric. Reckon anything soft and slightly thick would do



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Postby Annis » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:03 pm

Is felt ok or is it a bit dodgy e.g. when it rains?


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Postby sally » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:05 pm

Don't see why not, its not going to get much soggier than any other absorbant fabric. Its not going to show anyway, its just there to make a good foundation layer



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Postby Annis » Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:07 pm

ok thanks :D


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Postby Sophia » Wed Oct 03, 2007 10:07 pm

Annis,

For working class stuff you really only need 2 widths of fabric for skirts whether you are knife pleating or cartridge pleating - that is all I use and I am larger round the waist than you are.

I know this sounds daft, but having measured the width of the flat area at the front (max of 4" per side in experience) and ensured there is a good deep pleat (min of 2") under this, I generally set the rest by eye. You will find that they fall naturally once you have a little practice.

All this is made easier if you put the two seams centre front and back btw.

Soph :D


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Postby Annis » Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:15 pm

Thanks Sophia.

The, what will be a, kirtle is for lower gentry - it will be laced at the side and then a black English gown over the top. I dont know how long that fashion lasted though :?


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Postby Annis » Thu Oct 04, 2007 3:49 pm

I've had a trial pleat of the fabric using 2" pleats and guess what, it's still too small! (there's a gap of about 6"!!) Is there anything I can do WITHOUT cutting it up first?!


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Postby Type16 » Thu Oct 04, 2007 3:53 pm

Just a thought from a bloke............

Yellow colour often runs from yellow dusters.

How about surgical lint?


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Postby sally » Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:02 pm

Type16 wrote:Just a thought from a bloke............

Yellow colour often runs from yellow dusters.

How about surgical lint?


thats a good point, I should have said I've always washed them first in the past, and the outer has been black fabric. Might not be a useful dodge on pale outer fabric :oops: Well spotted, that could have been a bit of a disaster in the wrong circumstances :oops:



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Postby Annis » Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:08 pm

I hadn't thought of that either, I might pass on the duster idea then, unless they can be hand washed?

Just had a success with my pleats - fewer and smaller ones!


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Postby Annis » Fri Oct 05, 2007 4:13 pm

Right, it's all done. I ended up using baize in replacment of dommet.

Here's the finished hood (anyone know how best to wear the hair underneath?! I'm having problems!)
Attachments
PICT0042.JPG
PICT0049.JPG
PICT0044.JPG


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Postby Annis » Fri Oct 05, 2007 4:14 pm

And a final one (great pose I know :lol: )
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PICT0052.JPG


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Postby Type16 » Fri Oct 05, 2007 4:42 pm

sally wrote:
Type16 wrote:Just a thought from a bloke............

Yellow colour often runs from yellow dusters.

How about surgical lint?


thats a good point, I should have said I've always washed them first in the past, and the outer has been black fabric. Might not be a useful dodge on pale outer fabric :oops: Well spotted, that could have been a bit of a disaster in the wrong circumstances :oops:


I'm quite domesticated really :D


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Postby Sophia » Fri Oct 05, 2007 5:26 pm

Annis,

Well done - looks good.

Hairstyle will depend on the length of your hair. Probably best to do either a bun or two plaits with linen tape in wrapped round your head and pinned. If it is too short for that then I would use a fringe band to keep it back and neat.

Sophia :D


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Postby Annis » Fri Oct 05, 2007 5:30 pm

Thanks :D

It is short, but I have used a band (fillet) to hold my fringe back, but when I put the hood on, it pushes everything forward!


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Postby myladyswardrobe » Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:39 am

Hi Annis,

So, you're thinking of joining Gentry next year??? Remember, we have NO idea what the "year" will be just yet so I would recommend not doing too much with gentry costume at this stage.

Hood - that looks great! Well done. Hairstyle - make a centre parting in your hair, and comb it down smoothly on both sides and tuck behind the ears. Then make two plaits at the back and flip up and over your head. Grip into place (or use the period method of hair taping). Hood on top!

Domet - I wasn't sure what you wanted this for. I don't bother using it simply because it is way too expensive. I simply use a couple of layers of calico or other cheap fabric if I need to but a piece of felt/baize would do very well too for hoods.
Do you want to be using something in place of domet for interlining the padded underkirtle (if you intend to make one)? If so, I suggest getting this stuff: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnwhitepage.html
though I get it from this UK company: http://www.psmc.co.uk/acatalog/Fabric.html

Its prime use is for making quilts and thing so it perfect for padding kirtles for the 16th century. From a Gentry point of view, it makes me look as though I am wearing a farthingale (or at least I have pretty much the right shape) and for a working class point of view, its definitely warm! And its much cheaper than Domet!

Kirtle pleating - Not exactly sure what you mean by its "6 inchs too short" - do you mean that once you pleated, the opening doesn't meet? If so, then reduce the size of the pleats. The ration for pleats is 1:3 - so if you have a 1 inch wide pleat, 3 inches are used to create that pleat. If you have a 2 inch wide pleat, 6 inches is needed. Must say, I hate knife/box pleating skirts. Its SO fiddly and annoying!

Hope that helps.

Bess.
Gentry/Tailor/Needlelacer - Kentwell.


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Postby Shadowcat » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:21 pm

"Domet - I wasn't sure what you wanted this for. I don't bother using it simply because it is way too expensive. I simply use a couple of layers of calico or other cheap fabric if I need to but a piece of felt/baize would do very well too for hoods.
Do you want to be using something in place of domet for interlining the padded underkirtle (if you intend to make one)? If so, I suggest getting this stuff: http://www.warmcompany.com/wnwhitepage.html
though I get it from this UK company: http://www.psmc.co.uk/acatalog/Fabric.html

Its prime use is for making quilts and thing so it perfect for padding kirtles for the 16th century. From a Gentry point of view, it makes me look as though I am wearing a farthingale (or at least I have pretty much the right shape) and for a working class point of view, its definitely warm! And its much cheaper than Domet!"

Sorry Bess, but your pricing is way off. Domette is about half the price of the wadding/batting you quote, (although it may be narrower) and totally suitable for hat/headdress making. You can find all sorts of wadding/batting and padding fabrics here too http://tinyurl.com/2sdj2y

S.



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Postby Annis » Mon Oct 08, 2007 7:46 pm

Thanks Bess, I'll keep that in mind.


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