Please help!!

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lidimy
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Please help!!

Postby lidimy » Wed Aug 22, 2007 12:57 pm

I have a big and urgent problem!

Despite measuring over and over again, turns out that my sleeve hole is too big for the arm hole in my dress.

Unfortunately, I've only realised this when there's only a few inches left of sleeve to sew on.... including the sleeve seam.


I have no idea what to do :( I don't know how to make the sleeve any smaller to fit the whole without it looking really stupid! Gathering isn't really an option is it?!

Please help, tis a bit urgent as I need to wear it soon! :shock:

Thankoo!

Lidi (:


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Postby lidimy » Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:05 pm

I don't know how :cry: No seams are visible at all on the sleeve, tis all hidden between the lining and outer... and I can't turn it inside out anymore because it's mostly already stuck on the gown!


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Postby lidimy » Wed Aug 22, 2007 1:26 pm

Would it be suitable to just... leave a little gap under the back of the arm?! Was toying with this before I started sewing yesterday but concluded it probably wasn't very authentic! Desperate times call for deperate measures, or is it a real no-no?

:S


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Postby lidimy » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:18 pm

Have tried putting a pleat in under the arm (thanks Annis...)

It seems to be OK... as long as I iron it flat and dont lift my arms too high :P

Any more suggestions before the needle of doom resumes its stabbing of the fabric again?


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Postby Tuppence » Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:46 pm

gathering under the arm will hurt if it's in a fabric that's in the least bit bulky.

it might be fine when you try it on, but after several hours wear, it'll bunch and dig in, and will range from being just uncomfortable, to hurting lots.

it sounds to me from your description of the manufacture, that it's a question of just unpicking and re-making.

other than that, can you do what sally suggested, and take some fabric out at the sleeve seam, and then use a top stitch (ie one you do fromthe right side, like ladder stitch) to re-sew the seam??


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Postby lidimy » Wed Aug 22, 2007 4:47 pm

Uh oh...

first sleeve fully sewn on...

:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

It's AWFUL! I can't move my arm at all and the beautifully fitting dress has turned into a crinkly nightmare, I don't know what to do :cry: :cry: And it was going so well!

I can't even reach over to hit the 'shift' key!


And I don't know about the 'just falling off the shoulder' look of the sleeve, this was lucky to get past my elbow without tearing! It's just gone so wrong and I feel so disappointed :(

A most disttraught Lid.

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!






And I must have put on weight, this dress never used to make me hyper ventilate...

If only I had read 2d's post before starting to sew....


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Postby Annis » Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:48 pm

lidimy wrote:And I must have put on weight, this dress never used to make me hyper ventilate...


Don't worry, I find that when I haven't worn my bodice for some time (then again, May to June isn't THAT long!), my innards all get squished and it really hurts! (like p and p's :lol:). Stomahers help :)

A x


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Postby lidimy » Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:04 am

Looks like I need a crash diet then!

Maybe it'll take any chub off the top of my arms then too. Ta da, I may be a waif, but that dress fits like a dream...


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Postby calicocloth » Thu Aug 23, 2007 7:49 am

Have you thought of altering the arm hole? Some medieval sleves fit into an almost tear-drop (upside down) shaped armhole. This allows the sleeve to fit in smoothly, but still allows the wearer complete freedom of movement. Do you have any scrap fabric that you could experiment with? If you can remake half the bodice a test out some possibilites - just don't cut into your beautifully fitting dress before you have tested out your ideas!!



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Postby gregory23b » Thu Aug 23, 2007 8:39 am

Can't you piece the missing parts and then sew in place?


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Postby sally » Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:03 am

Sleeves are one of the hardest things to get right, so don't dispair, you will learn so much in sorting this one out that your next dress will be loads easier.



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Postby calicocloth » Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:13 am

I couldn't agree more Sally - sleeves are the trickiest bit.

I don't suppose you can post any pictures of the problem?



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Postby ViscontesseD'Asbeau » Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:31 am

Sounds like time is an issue, but even so I'd be deeply tempted to take off the sleeve you've done, unpick slightly down the side seams of the body enough to allow you to cut the hole slightly deeper, measuring the shortfall carefully first then cutting so the hole then fits the sleeve. A cheat but I'd probably do it, is to use the technique of making an underarm gusset (usually a diamond shape insert under the arm), to accomodate your excess.

I suspect few people have ever made a first kit that was totally authentic or so good they still wanted to wear it for years after (I think I made thee in my first season, as my knowledge grew I got embarrassed by my first efforts fast!) and I know other people do the same. So a bit of fudging in an area that doesn't show is worth it, if you get some use out of it before you realise you want to make a new one!

You learn nothing from getting things right first time and learn massively from making mistakes, so think of it in a positive way! :D :D

We've been making costume the best part of 30 years and I still mess up sleeves all the time!

One tip I'd give, if I had to give any would be to not just follow your pattern and its instructions (esp if someone else gave you the pattern) but to look at as many pictures of clothing from the period as you can (these days it's easy online!) That's especially useful for things like if and where to gather, etc. You will get a good feel for clothing fast if you look constantly at primary sources, and aim at that.



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Postby gregory23b » Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:57 am

Wise words from wise ladies.


Note V de A's comment re pictures, I have mid 16thc doublet, mostly made right - (had the same problem re sleeves as it happens and added a really tiny gusset about an inch or so - better than having sleeve holes I couldn't fit into), but anyhoo the gathering I had on my sleeves matches that in pics, just that I don't necessarily like it, in reality I am used to it and it is now fine.


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Postby Drachelis » Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:06 pm

I will echo everyone elses comments - it may be time consuming but unpicking and re fiting is always the best way.

Yes, sleeves are difficult - I tend to go round twice re altering the pins to "ease" the sleeve into place - then tack - then try on then properly stitch when I am satisfied.

I often take two or three goes until it fits properly.

Did you cut a sleeeve from a pattern?

If it is tight nder the arms cut a diamond shaped gusset and fit it in to the sleeve and fit it into the sleeve seam and the side seam of the dress under the arm to give more movement.

Cherry
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( who has a shed load of doublets with puffy arms to complete riht at the minute so knows just how you are feeling)



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Postby lidimy » Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:19 pm

Thanks all, spoke to Bess too who agreed that unpicking and re-fitting is the best option!

Pictures will come soon, but am going away this weekend so not til Tuesday at the earliest. And I have to wear the dress the following Sunday!

AAAAAAH!

Drachelis, the pattern came from the TT :)

The thing with adding more material to the sleeve is that I've already taken some in! And I don't know how to extend the arm hole in the dress :(

Lidi...


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Postby Tuppence » Thu Aug 23, 2007 5:58 pm

to extend the armhole you just cut it a little lower, and depending where it pinches (assuming thats the problem), shave a little off at those points too.

v little at a time, and try on between 'shavings'.


and remember, if you end up cutting more off than you meant to, it's perfecty correct historically to put a piece in to make up for it.


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Postby lidimy » Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:36 pm

Hmm, could take some time, this.
Te thing is, without my shift on it fits in a glove like fashion, but with all those folds of linen crumpled up inside, makes everything a tad too snug.

Peeling back the sides of the arm hole sounds like a convincing idea, thanks for that 2d as I hadn't though of that at all! ( :roll: )

Lidi :D


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Postby lidimy » Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:54 pm

Piccies up in the Pictures section.


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