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Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:57 pm
by British
I'm in the middle of making a pine table and next week I'll be starting on some more softwood stuff.
I was told elsewhere that softwood would have been the chosen timber for household furniture. But I would like an instant-ish old look to it. So has anyone got any suggestions based upon tried and tested methods that would make these shiny new pieces look like I've stolen them from an old castle or museum?

Re: Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:35 pm
by paul bennett
bear in mind that, while that recommendation comes from the only real written source for carpentry from the medieval period, It sits in a 10 volume work on architecture.
However, you may not be able to sell pine stuff to re-enactors or people looking for "medieval type" furniture, due to the popular perception that everything was made from oak. Which is why I make everything from oak :D

These guys seem to have aging down to a tee: ... ldOak.html

All I can suggest is to abuse the thing. Put it outside for a week, then in a damp shed, then get it inside and turn the heating up. Then tw*t it a few times and attempt a quick repair job. Not instant, but it would give you that deep grain and warping with little effort

Re: Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 7:42 pm
by British
Tw*t it... I like that...
Might I ask, Paul. You seem to be doing well in your woodwork endeavours. What machinery have you got and how large a space do you have to work in?
The place I work at, where things are bad enough to reduce us to a three day week. It would seem that job loss is imminent. This doesn't bother me, I could start better with what I want to do. Work from home.

Re: Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:42 pm
by paul bennett
Machinery - all makes and models = the bargain basement one from screwfix/netto
pillar drill
benchtop bandsaw
bench top sander
3rd sheet sander
corded drill
I think I have a jigsaw somewhere, but I never use it. Too rough and hot

About 10 x 5 feet in the basement. Shared with the freezer. A bit damp.
A workbench inherited with the house, made from bits of scrap. not a straight line in sight. Its clean living though - no vices.

Right now I would kill for a table saw, a router table and a god damned flat surface. Cant fit the first two, cant afford the third. If I make anything straight, it is entirely down to the blood sacrifice rather than the equipment.

Getting back to pine - Fran has a pine table top she got for almost nowt. It was heavily varnished and obviously machine planed fat, narrow boards. I just took a big gouge to it (entirely by hand) and stained it (Colron oil-based Jacobean Dark Oak). People seem to like it.

Re: Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:42 am
by British
Does the base of your router unscrew... It should, I've never seen one that doesn't.
Unscrew it. Careful not to lose a spring that's usually in there for holding optional guide ring.
Use the base in the middle of a nice thick board. Maybe 25mm MDF. And transfer all those holes. Cut them out. Make a table deep enough to house your router fully opened and upside down. Fasten the two together. Fix your router in. You may need longer screws to hold your MDF on to ensure a secure hold.
Depending on what cutters you are using, if you use one with a wheel bearing all is fine. Otherwise, make a fence to run your work off. But I doubt any of tour timber has a straight edge to work off. In that case, make a curved fence.
Then fasten your table to your bench with a couple of brackets.

What make of router is it?
'Cause making a table is better. You can make it as versatile as you wish.

Give me a shout if you need any help. I've had to knock these tables up a few times.

Re: Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 12:34 pm
by paul bennett
I dont have room for a router table. I could afford a nice one, but would have no-where to put it when not in use

Re: Colouring and polishing pine

Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:35 pm
by Cathy the slayer
Antique pine, medium oak, jacobean oak or indianrosewood shades of stain would work depending on the colour density you are looking for, Wood stain comes in both waterbased or spirit based formulas, if working in poorly ventilated area's I would advise use of water based, it dries out very quickly & can be recoated for deeper colour in less than an hour, best applied along the grain with a sponge or lint free cloth, using a brush usually leads to a streaky unatractive finish & needs excess stain wiping off with a cloth, when woodstain has completely dried use Briwax or neutral coloron finishing wax to seal the surface, gives a lovely soft sheen