Working class lady - Clothing layers

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ladydetemps
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Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby ladydetemps » Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:58 am

Hi so I'm having a go at making a lower class outfit (I have lots of posh regency frocks already). I have stays, 1 petticoat and a mantau de lit. Is there any other layers I need? I'm aiming for nearer the end of the 1700's, beginning of 1800s. For footwear I have my dancing clogs. ;)



bigshep
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby bigshep » Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:42 pm

http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/18cnel/women.html
Is a good read, it is based upon the research from the US for about the 1780-90 period, but reading it and comparing it to pictures from military camps and the life in Yorkshire pictures below you can see the similarities
http://www.maggieblanck.com/Land/OPCE.html
Looking at your list I would say you need another petticoat, a set of pockets, an apron, neckerchief and then a hat or hats and maybe a simple cloak.
https://www.pinterest.com/khazzard2000/ ... 1780-1830/ also some good pictures.

Simon
I



ladydetemps
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby ladydetemps » Tue Apr 15, 2014 2:59 pm

bigshep wrote:http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/18cnel/women.html
Is a good read, it is based upon the research from the US for about the 1780-90 period, but reading it and comparing it to pictures from military camps and the life in Yorkshire pictures below you can see the similarities
http://www.maggieblanck.com/Land/OPCE.html
Looking at your list I would say you need another petticoat, a set of pockets, an apron, neckerchief and then a hat or hats and maybe a simple cloak.
https://www.pinterest.com/khazzard2000/ ... 1780-1830/ also some good pictures.

Simon
I

Thanks. :)
I've got apron and cape in my wardrobe. I have a cap but it doesn't look 18th century enough. So that's something to make. Another petticoat if I can find some material in my stash. And Pockets.



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Grymm
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby Grymm » Fri May 02, 2014 1:34 am

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Newcastle Emlyn Costumes' by Julius Caesar Ibbetson, 1792

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Return from Market by Francis Wheatley, 1789

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Detail from Eccles Wakes, Racing for the Smock, 1808

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And a couple of plates from WH Pyne's Costumes of Great Britain pub 1805.


Futuaris nisi irrisus ridebis.

bigshep
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby bigshep » Sun May 04, 2014 9:50 am

ooh..I like those. Especially the racing to the smock one as it has nice details of stays and also some kids as well (sadly lacking in lots of pictures)



ladydetemps
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby ladydetemps » Mon Jun 09, 2014 12:24 pm

I thought you might like to see this
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co ... ntury.html
I still need to make a 2nd petticoat (Was actually using my 1950's petticoat underneath) and make some stays. I wasn't sure if I should have worn stockings with my clogs?
Next thing to make is some pockets. :)



ladydetemps
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby ladydetemps » Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:39 pm

finally finished my stays
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And this is my first fitting of my shortgown over stays, pettiocat and bumroll. Please excuse the messy room and me using my nightdown as a shift.
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What do you think about the neckline is it too high?



bigshep
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby bigshep » Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:11 am

Stays look lovely. I sewed a set for my wife last year, but did the half boned set rather than full boned. Bit of adjustment this year and they seem to fit nicely. I know how much work goes into to these pieces of clothing (fingers still got the scars now)

The neckline on the short gown is probably about an inch too high I would say. It does seem low to us, but you would have a neck chief over the top and tucked in to keep you warm and help with your modesty during the day :) Funny enough I have just finished making Manteau de Lit's (bedgown) for my wife and daughter in preparation for next years season.

However I am no way an expert, and am still struggling through lots of drawings, patterns and various online resources to try to piece together information on the common woman, rather than the middle/upper classes.

Simon



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Karen Larsdatter
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby Karen Larsdatter » Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:20 pm

The short gown's neckline does appear to be a tad high, but if you're more comfortable with it up there, it's not a deal-breaker. http://larsdatter.com/18c/shortgowns.html has a few extant examples (although the links are hideously out of date -- the CW links no longer go to the right place, you'll have to get to them by starting from http://emuseum.history.org and searching for the accession number from there -- and the Swedish links need updating, too). http://www.pinterest.com/heileen/18th-c ... hortgowns/ provides some more examples.

Have you pleated the back? Some of the extant examples show a bit of pleating in the back, though IIRC not all. See http://fashionablefrolick.blogspot.com/ ... bliss.html for a re-creation that shows how the pleating goes.

There is also the possibility of a drawstring to create the high-waisted look for very late 18th century to very early 19th -- http://www.sew18thcentury.com/2012/03/c ... -gown.html shows a re-creation of this, and http://images.library.yale.edu/walpolew ... lwlpr10513 shows such a garment as it was worn.

(I'd definitely recommend wearing stockings with your clogs, if for no other reason than for comfort and prevention of blisters.) :)



ladydetemps
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby ladydetemps » Wed Dec 17, 2014 3:35 pm

ooh, just noticed I got two replies. :)

Thanks for the info. Got the short gown finished and started on rejigging some 1990s mules into 18th century ones.
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I also had a go at a higher class outfit.
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Info and more pics on my blog
http://stitchintimeandspace.blogspot.co ... en-of.html

I had a little trouble with the front gapping (hook n eye) not sure how to solve it. Maybe I can cover with trim?
Image



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Karen Larsdatter
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Re: Working class lady - Clothing layers

Postby Karen Larsdatter » Tue Feb 17, 2015 8:25 pm

ladydetemps wrote:I had a little trouble with the front gapping (hook n eye) not sure how to solve it. Maybe I can cover with trim?


Well, I typically do the front of that kind of gown so that I can overlap them just a tiny bit and pin them closed (rather than going with hook-and-eye closure). I'd suggest maybe creating a stomacher -- either out of the same red fabric or a contrasting fabric -- pinning that to the front of your stays, and then maybe opening up the front of the gown to reveal the stomacher (and pinning the gown to the stays/stomacher along the front)?

You can see some examples of stomachers at http://larsdatter.com/18c/stomachers.html if you'd like to get some ideas on stomachers, their ornamentation and their shape.




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