To cuff or not to cuff?

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Uncle Bulgaria
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To cuff or not to cuff?

Postby Uncle Bulgaria » Mon May 21, 2007 8:27 pm

Dear All

Hopefully I will be able to get more help her than my endless searching and confusion on the net.

I have an event coming up in which I need some late Tudorbethan kit date is early 1600's. (Not normally my period).

The problem I seem to be having is what design is my shift/chemise suppose to be. So far I've found square neck, round neck, collared etc and cuffs or no cuffs? Also can I Blackwork my cuffs if only protraying a crafts person?

Any help would be gratefully received but the simpler the better as I now have brain freeze and portrait over load.

Many Thanks

Unc


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Postby lidimy » Mon May 21, 2007 8:35 pm

If it's Tudorbethan, you'd be better off with a high necked smock, not square necked :) And collared I believe too, but you may want to verify that with a more dependable and otherwise learned source :D

Lidi :)


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Re: To cuff or not to cuff?

Postby seamsmistress » Mon May 21, 2007 10:47 pm

Uncle Bulgaria wrote:The problem I seem to be having is what design is my shift/chemise suppose to be. So far I've found square neck, round neck, collared etc and cuffs or no cuffs? Also can I Blackwork my cuffs if only protraying a crafts person?

Unc


A good book to look at would be the Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila & Jane Malcolm Davis.http://www.tudortailor.com/

However, in case you don't want the added expense........

Most people had several chemises/shifts as these were changed quite frequently. The best would have been reserved for Holy days and Hallidays, so Sundays and feasts and these could well have had some black or redwork decoration applied to them as they were 'special'.

For the everyday, it might to some extent depend upon what your craft is. If it involves needlework or a keen eye for small detail, there is every reason to suppose that you would have adorned your clothing according to your skills, especially if it would have advertised those skills to your clientele - always assuming you had the time.

Necklines tend to follow the line of the bodices for the upper orders and exposed necklines would then have been covered by a partlett for modesty. White linen would be the order of the day for the gentler folk. For the everyday folk, I'd think it safest to stick to a natural undyed linen, high neckline, with a small collar and cuffed sleeves. No cuffs speaks of the lowest orders. You might possibly add a frill at the edge of collar and maybe the cuffs if you wanted to push the boat out a bit. This would then replace the need for a ruff at neck or wrist, but still see you decently clothed.

The front opening for both ladies and gents can be surprisingly long, descending to just above mid breast.

pm me if you need any more help/info and/or if your eyes haven't glazed over yet!



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Uncle Bulgaria
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Postby Uncle Bulgaria » Mon May 21, 2007 11:03 pm

Mny thanks to both.

Seamstress I will more than likely PM you if that's OK. Am having a family holiday before things get really hectic so it may be in a couple of weeks (I thought i'd leave the needlework at home, but may sneek some Blackwork practice with me!).

Yes may trade is weaving and silkwares, so I suppose I will have to decorate somewhere but as time is running out, I may just blackwork the cuffs. :roll:

Speak soon

Unc


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Postby Tuppence » Tue May 22, 2007 12:23 am

hey

I'd say that lidi's right about the high neck - all the examples in the v&a for example from this date have high necklines, with an opening slit coming down to roughly below breast level (bra strap level-ish if you see what I mean).

the high necked variations all have cuffs and collar to match (bear in mind they're extant, so are of relatively high rank, as you'd expect, and some are embroidered).

what I mean by that is that if the cuffs are frilled so is the collar, if the cuffs are plain so is the collar.

if your role includes anything textile related you could have blackwork on your cuffs / collar without it being wrong (though it's by no means essential).

the book I'd recommend for the shifts is historic fashion in detail by hart and north - as well as the close up photos (which are stunning) it has detailed line drawings showing the specifics of cut.

if you don't have a copy I can photocopy the relevant shifty bits and send you them - pm me if you'd like me to.

debs


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Postby Mad Mab » Tue Jun 19, 2007 2:48 pm

Tuppence wrote:.

if you don't have a copy I can photocopy the relevant shifty bits and send you them - pm me if you'd like me to.

debs


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Postby frances » Sun Sep 16, 2007 10:38 pm

I've just had the time to find this discussion. In their printed images at the front of their published works scientists and like ilk had blackwork on their high collars and cuffs. This is not to say they wore it everyday, and not that they actually owned anything with blackwork on it - the artist may well have put it in themselves [problem area for costume experts]. Higher-born important skilled men could have a blackwork design that reflected their expertise. However, if you are portryaing someone who is selling embroidery as a craft skill then your own clothes would be your shop window.

So I hope you were blackworking like mad! Do you have a pic?



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Uncle Bulgaria
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Postby Uncle Bulgaria » Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:20 pm

Dear Frances

Finally got arpund to some piccies of the finished shift.

Please bear in mind that this was my first attempt so there are probably a few faults in it that people will pcik up on but I'm quite proad of my efforts.
:oops: :oops:
Attachments
DSC01640.JPG
DSC01645.JPG
DSC01641.JPG


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Uncle Bulgaria
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Postby Uncle Bulgaria » Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:21 pm

a couple more.......
Attachments
DSC01642.JPG
DSC01644.JPG


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Postby lidimy » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:00 pm

:o :o :o

How do you do that?!?! It's just so amazing!


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Uncle Bulgaria
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Postby Uncle Bulgaria » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:05 pm

Dear lidimy

A LOT of patience! I thought it would be a good idea at the time but i'd only left myself a couple of weeks before the event, so I had a few late nights :roll:

I do find that I back away from small children with icecreams now as I would be gutted if I spoilt it too soon :shock: :shock:

next project is victorian so very different


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Postby lidimy » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:06 pm

Well all the best with it!

Did you do the edges in diddy blanket stitches?


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Postby Uncle Bulgaria » Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:09 pm

Yes all the edges are blanket stitches and no I forgot to count them :lol: :lol:


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Postby frances » Wed Oct 03, 2007 11:09 pm

I do like black edges - they look so smart to an 21st century eye. Well done you for a very nice job.




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